Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [433]
Buncrana
pop 3411
On the tame side of the peninsula, Buncrana (Bun Cranncha) is a busy but appealing town with its fair share of pubs and a 5km sandy beach on the shores of Lough Swilly.
INFORMATION
Bank of Ireland (Lower Main St) ATM and bureau de change.
Post office (Upper Main St)
Tourist office ( 074-936 2600; Derry Rd; Jun-Sep; hr vary annually) One kilometre south of the town centre.
Ulster Bank (Upper Main St) ATM and bureau de change.
Valu Clean ( 074-936 2570; Lower Main St; laundry from €6.60) Laundry service.
SIGHTS
At the northern end of the seafront, the early 18th-century, six-arched Castle Bridge leads to O’Doherty’s Keep, a tower house built by the O’Dohertys, the local chiefs, in 1430. It was burned by the English and then rebuilt for their own use. At its side is the manorlike Buncrana Castle, built in 1718 by John Vaughan, who also constructed the bridge; Wolfe Tone was imprisoned here following the unsuccessful French invasion in 1798. Walking 500m further from the keep (turn left and stick to the shoreline) brings you to Ned’s Point Fort (1812), built by the British and now under siege from graffiti artists.
SLEEPING & EATING
Tullyarvan Mill ( 074-936 1613; www.tullyarvanmill.com; Carndonagh Rd; dm/d/q €18/50/60; ) This excellent purpose-built hostel was recently attached to the historic Tullyarvan Mill. Amid riverside gardens, the mill also incorporates an inexpensive restaurant (open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, dishes from €5) and regular cultural events and art exhibits. Head north out of town on the R238 and follow the signs.
Lake of Shadows Hotel ( 074-936 1005; www.lakeofshadows.com; Grianán Park; s €40, d €90-100; ) A fine rose-coloured Victorian facade brings to mind past generations coming to ‘take the sea air’ at this 23-room hotel. Alas, while rooms are attractive, some have an unfortunate rising damp problem. The location is lovely, though, and staff helpful. Meals are available, with mains from €11 to €24. From Main St, head down Church St towards the bay.
Beach House ( 074-936 1050; The Pier, Swilly Rd; lunch mains €6.50-17.50, dinner mains €16-26; 5pm-late Tue-Fri, noon-late Sat & Sun) With plate-glass windows facing the lough, this aptly named cafe/restaurant projects an elegant simplicity. Although the menu is also intrinsically simple, the quality and preparation are a cut above: ‘surf and turf’, for example, comes with fillet steak, crab claws, langoustines and creamy bisque.
ENTERTAINMENT
Dating from 1792, the spearmint-and-moss-green Atlantic Bar ( 074-932 0880; Upper Main St) is Buncrana’s oldest and most atmospheric pub.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
From Buncrana, Lough Swilly ( 074-912 2863) buses run several times daily to Derry and less often to Carndonagh.
The Lough Swilly Ferry ( 074-938 1901; www.loughfoyleferry.com) usually runs from Buncrana to Rathmullan (30 minutes) from mid-June to September, however, the continuation of this service was in doubt at the time of research – check for updates.
South of Buncrana
FAHAN
A monastery was founded in Fahan by St Colmcille in the 6th century. Among its ruins is the beautifully carved, 7th-century St Mura Cross in the graveyard beside the church. Each face is decorated with a cross, in intricate Celtic weave, and the barely discernible Greek inscription is the only one known from this early Christian period.
GRIANáN OF AILEáCH
This amphitheatre-like stone fort (admission free; 10am-6pm; ) encircles the top of Grianán Hill like a halo, 18km south of Buncrana near Burt, signposted off the N13. Locals open the gate each day, giving visitors the chance to take in eye-popping views of the surrounding loughs and all the way to Derry. Its mini-arena can resemble a circus whenever a tour bus rolls up and spills its load inside