Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [434]
The fort may have existed at least 2000 years ago, but it’s thought that the site itself goes back to pre-Celtic times as a temple to the god Dagda. Between the 5th and 12th centuries it was the seat of the O’Neills, before being demolished by Murtogh O’Brien, king of Munster. Most of what you see now is a reconstruction built between 1874 and 1878.
The merry-go-round-shaped Burt Church at the foot of the hill was modelled on the fort by Derry architect Liam McCormack and built in 1967.
INCH ISLAND
Few tourists make it to residential Inch Island, accessible from the mainland by a causeway, but it’s worth a detour for its birdlife (especially swans), two small beaches and remains of an old fort. Inch Island Stables ( 074-936 0335) organises horse-riding lessons and trips around the island.
Lenamore Stables ( 074-938 4022; www.lenamorestables.com), on the mainland in Muff, can also set you up for hacking in the area.
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The Midlands
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COUNTY LAOIS
ABBEYLEIX
DURROW
SLIEVE BLOOM MOUNTAINS
MOUNTRATH & AROUND
MOUNTMELLICK
PORTARLINGTON
EMO COURT
ROCK OF DUNAMAISE
STRADBALLY
TIMAHOE
COUNTY OFFALY
BIRR
KINNITTY
BANAGHER & AROUND
SHANNONBRIDGE
CLONMACNOISE
TULLAMORE
DURROW ABBEY
COUNTY ROSCOMMON
STROKESTOWN & AROUND
BOYLE & AROUND
ROSCOMMON TOWN
COUNTY LEITRIM
CARRICK-ON-SHANNON
WEST LEITRIM
COUNTY LONGFORD
COUNTY WESTMEATH
ATHLONE
LOUGH REE & AROUND
KILBEGGAN & AROUND
MULLINGAR & AROUND
NORTH OF MULLINGAR
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Rarely explored by those on their first visit to Ireland and wonderfully free of tour buses and souvenir stalls, the Midlands – the counties of Laois, Offaly, Roscommon, Leitrim, Longford, and Westmeath – may not have the scenic drama or sophisticated cities of coastal Ireland, but it’s brimming with verdant pastoral landscapes, stately homes, archaeological remains and sleepy towns where the locals are genuinely glad to see you. The Midlands took longer than most parts to feel the effects of Ireland’s economic boom, but its towns and cities have grown just as chaotically as elsewhere. The financial crisis has also taken its toll, but the locals aren’t giving up their skinny lattes just yet.
The region is dominated by the River Shannon, which meanders through fields and forests, drawing boaters and fishers in hoards. Plush hotels and gourmet restaurants have sprung up along its banks, making it a wonderfully scenic and surprisingly cosmopolitan way to travel. The river drew early settlers to the area: the incredible Celtic site at Cruachan Aí is one of Europe’s most significant, and the early Christians created Ireland’s most magnificent monastic site at Clonmacnoise.
Outside the main centres, the Midlands is a wonderful place to get lost. It’s one of the last regions in Ireland where you can wander into the local village shop-cum-pub/undertaker’s/garage/post office and find it little changed from decades ago. If you’re in search of a genuine slice of rural Irish life, this area makes the perfect retreat.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Kick Back and Relax Slow down a gear and discover the rolling landscapes along the banks of the Shannon–Erne Waterway at Carrick-on-Shannon
Backtrack Discover the Iron Age oak trackway unearthed at Corlea in County Longford’s bog land Click here
Ecclesiastical Wonder Contemplate the lost land of saints and scholars at Ireland’s finest monastic site, Clonmacnoise
Pile on the Pounds Enjoy the rising reputation of gourmet Ireland along the banks of the Shannon, especially in Athlone and Carrick-on-Shannon
Georgian Gentility Roam the tree-lined streets and explore the castle grounds before dropping in on a traditional session in elegant Birr
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POPULATION: 339,400
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AREA: 10,782 SQ KM
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COUNTY LAOIS
Little-visited Laois (pronounced leash) is often overlooked as drivers zoom past to sexier sites in the west. Away from the main roads, though, is a real hidden corner of Ireland, where historic towns and the unspoiled