Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [440]
Both Barrowline Cruisers ( 057-862 660; www.barrowline.ie; Vicarstown Inn, Vicarstown, Co Laois) and Canalways ( 087 243 3879; www.canalways.ie; Spencer Bridge, Rathangan, Co Kildare) have boats for hire along the Grand Canal and River Barrow. Banagher is also a good place for Grand Canal rentals.
At the time of writing, there were no operators offering boats on the Royal Canal.
Walking the Towpaths
Canal towpaths are ideal for leisurely walkers and there are numerous access points along both canals. A variety of leaflets detailing the paths can be picked up at most regional tourist offices and you’ll find information on suggested routes and descriptions of the trails on www.iwai.ie. Waterways Ireland is also a good source of information on the towpaths.
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Timahoe is 13km southeast of Portlaoise on the R426.
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COUNTY OFFALY
Apart from the magnificent ecclesiastical city of Clonmacnoise, the green and watery county of Offaly doesn’t feature on many tourists’ itineraries, but this hidden gem of Ireland is also home to atmospheric Georgian towns, numerous castles and a burgeoning foodie culture.
Clonmacnoise, a monastic site overlooking the Shannon, is one of Ireland’s most famous sights and a must-see attraction. But beyond this busy corner of Offaly, there’s a county steeped in history, where the wonderful heritage town of Birr, with its excellent food and accommodation options, makes a rewarding base.
Geographically, Offaly is dominated by low-lying bogs. Enormous expanses like the Bog of Allen and the Boora Bog, where peat is extracted on an industrial scale, are horribly scarred. However, in the north of the county, Clara Bog is remarkably untouched and is recognised internationally for its plant and animal life. It’s under consideration for Unesco recognition.
The rugged Slieve Bloom Mountains provide excellent walking, while fishing and water sports are popular on the River Shannon and the Grand Canal. Access www.offaly.ie and www.discoverireland.ie/offaly for more information.
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BIRR
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Feel-good Birr is one of the most attractive towns in the Midlands, with elegant pastel Georgian buildings lining its streets, a magnificent old castle, a good choice of restaurants and lively nightlife with excellent live music. Despite its appeal, Birr remains off the beaten track and you can enjoy its delights without jostling with the crowds.
In mid-August, the town celebrates its rich history during Birr Vintage Week and Arts Festival (www.birrvintageweek.com), with street parades, theatre, music, exhibitions, workshops, guided walks and a traditional fair.
History
Birr started life as a 6th-century monastic site founded by St Brendan. By 1208 the town had acquired an Anglo-Norman castle, home of the O’Carroll clan who reigned over the surrounding territory.
During the Plantation of 1620, the castle and estate were given to Sir Laurence Parsons. He changed the town’s fate by carefully laying out streets, establishing a glass factory and issuing a decree that anyone who ‘cast dunge rubbidge filth or sweepings in the forestreet’ would be fined four pennies. He also banned barmaids, sentencing any woman caught serving beer to the stocks. The castle has remained in the family for 14 generations, and the present earl and his wife still live on the estate.
Orientation
All the main roads converge on Emmet Sq, with its erect column honouring martyred Irish patriot Robert Emmet. In one corner, Dooly’s Hotel, dating from 1747, was once a coaching inn on the busy route to the west.
Information
The post office is in the northeastern corner of Emmet Sq.
Mid-Ireland Tourism ( 057-912 0923; www.midirelandtourism.ie; Brendan St; 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) When the tourist office is closed, you’ll find an info point with helpful staff and plenty of brochures here.
Tourist office ( 057-912 0110; Civic Offices, Wilmer Rd; 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat mid-May–mid-Sep) Has good regional info, as well as info for Birr.
Sights