Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [441]
BIRR CASTLE DEMESNE
It’s easy to spend half a day exploring the attractions and gardens of Birr Castle Demesne ( 057-912 0336; www.birrcastle.com; adult/child €9/5; 9am-6pm mid-Mar–Oct, noon-4pm Nov-Feb). The castle is a private home, however, and cannot be visited. Most of the present building dates from around 1620, with alterations made in the early 19th century.
The 50-hectare castle grounds are famous for their magnificent gardens set around a large artificial lake. They hold over 1000 species of plants from all over the world; something always seems to be in bloom. Look for the world’s tallest box hedges, planted in the 1780s and now standing 12m high, and the romantic Hornbeam cloister.
The Parsons were a remarkable family of pioneering Irish scientists, and their work is documented in the historic science centre. Exhibits include the massive telescope built by William Parsons in 1845. The ‘leviathan of Parsonstown’, as it was known, was the largest telescope in the world for 75 years and attracted a wide variety of scientists and astronomers. (It was used to make innumerable discoveries, including the spiral galaxies, and to map the moon’s surface.) After the death of William’s son, the telescope, unloved and untended, slowly fell to bits. A huge restoration scheme in the 1990s rebuilt the telescope: it’s now fully operational, and demonstrations are held three times daily in high season.
OTHER BUILDINGS & MONUMENTS
Birr has no shortage of first-class Georgian houses; just stroll down tree-lined Oxmantown Mall, which connects Rosse Row and Emmet St, or John’s Mall, to see some of the best examples.
The tourist office hands out a walking map that details the most important landmarks, including a statue of the third Earl of Rosse, the megalithic Seffin Stone (said to be the ancient marker for Umbilicus Hiberniae – the Navel of Ireland – used to mark the centre of the country) and St Brendan’s Old Churchyard, reputedly the site of the saint’s 6th-century settlement.
Activities
A beautiful leafy riverside walk runs east along the River Camcor from Oxmantown Bridge to Elmgrove Bridge.
If you’re feeling more energetic, Birr Outdoor Education Centre ( 057-912 0029; www.oec.ie; Roscrea Rd) offers hill walking, rock climbing and abseiling in the nearby Slieve Blooms, as well as canoeing and kayaking on local rivers.
Birr Equestrian Centre ( 057-912 1961; www.birrequestrian.ie; Kingsborough House; treks per hr €35), 3km outside Birr on the Clareen road, runs hour-long treks in the surrounding farmland and half-day treks in the Slieve Bloom Mountains.
Sleeping
Spinners ( 057-912 1673; www.spinnerstownhouse.com; Castle St; s/d from €50/60; ) Bright, simple rooms with crisp white linen, wooden floors and neutral colour schemes make this restored Georgian guesthouse a good bet. The bathrooms are tight, but the rooms are quite spacious and good value. The courtyard restaurant downstairs is a treat.
Maltings Guesthouse ( 057-912 1345; themaltingsbirr@eircom.net; Castle St; s/d from €50/80; ) Based in an 1810 malt storehouse once used by Guinness, this place has a serene location right by the castle and the River Camcor. The 13 simple rooms are spotless, service is friendly and there’s a popular restaurant downstairs.
Brendan House ( 057-912 1818; www.tinjugstudio.com; Brendan St; s/d €55/85) Gloriously eccentric and packed to the gills with knick-knacks, books, rugs, art and antiques, this Georgian town house is a bohemian delight. The three rooms share a bathroom, but the four-poster beds, period charm and artistic style of the place more than make up for this. The owners also run an artists’ studio and gallery, offer evening meals on request and can arrange guided mountain walks, castle tours and holistic treatments.
Eating & Drinking
Emma’s Cafe & Deli ( 057-912 5678; 31 Main St; meals €4-8; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat year-round, 12.30-5.30pm Sun Jun-Aug) Laid-back, relaxed and bursting with good food, Emma’s is a popular local haunt, serving an interesting range of ciabatta, panini, salads and cakes. There are books