Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [447]
Continuing round the compound you come to the 12th-century Temple Melaghlin, with its attractive windows, and the twin structures of Temple Hurpan and Temple Doolin.
ROUND TOWERS
Overlooking the River Shannon is the 20m-high O’Rourke’s Tower. Lightning blasted the top off the tower in 1135, but the remaining structure was used for another 400 years.
Temple Finghin and its round tower are on the northern boundary of the site, also overlooking the Shannon. The building dates from around 1160 and has some fine Romanesque carvings. The herringbone-patterned tower roof is the only one in Ireland that has never been altered. Most round towers became shelters when the monasteries were attacked, but this one was probably just used as a bell tower since the doorway is at ground level.
OTHER REMAINS
Beyond the site’s boundary wall, about 500m east through the modern graveyard, is the secluded Nun’s Church. From here the main site, including the towers, is not visible. The church has wonderful Romanesque arches with minute carvings; one has been interpreted as Ireland’s earliest sheila-na-gig, in an acrobatic pose with feet tucked behind the ears.
To the west of the site, on the ridge near the car park, is a motte with the oddly shaped ruins of a 13th-century castle, built by John de Grey, bishop of Norwich, to watch over the Shannon.
Sleeping
If you want to stay near the ruins, your best option is Kajon House ( 090-967 4191; www.kajonhouse.ie; Creevagh; d from €70; Mar-Oct; ), just 1.5km from the ruins on the road signposted to Tullamore. It’s an incredibly friendly place with cosy rooms, a spacious yard with a picnic table and evening meals on offer. You can even have pancakes for breakfast.
Shopping
On your way to Clonmacnoise, it’s worth stopping off in Ballinahown to visit the Core Craft Centre ( 090-643 0222; Old School House, Ballinahown; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat) to browse the range of contemporary craftwork, bog oak sculpture and pottery on offer. There’s an excellent range of items on display and prices are more reasonable than in city craft shops. Ballinahown is on the N62, about 10km from Clonmacnoise.
Getting There & Away
Clonmacnoise is 7km northeast of Shannonbridge on the R444 and about 24km south of Athlone in County Westmeath. By car you can explore this interesting and evocative area at leisure.
Silver Line ( 057-915 1112; www.silverlinecruisers.com; adult/child one-way €7/4) run three boat trips on Saturday and Sunday from June to September from Shannonbridge to Clonmacnoise.
There are also river cruises to Clonmacnoise from Athlone in County Westmeath (Click here).
A taxi ( 090-647 4400) from Athlone will cost roughly €50 to €70 round-trip, including an hour’s wait.
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TULLAMORE
pop 10,900
Tullamore, Offaly’s county town, is a bustling but workaday place with a pleasant setting on the Grand Canal. The town is most famous for Tullamore Dew whiskey, although production has long since moved to County Tipperary. You can still visit the old distillery and have a dram of the amber liquid.
Information
My Office ( 057-932 9886; William St; per 15min €1; 10.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun) Internet access in a 1st-floor business centre.
Tourist office ( 057-935 2617; tullamoredhc@eircom.net; Bury Quay; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat & noon-5pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat & noon-5pm Sun Oct-Apr).
Sights
TULLAMORE DEW HERITAGE CENTRE
Located in a 19th-century canalside warehouse, the heritage centre ( 057-932 5015; www.tullamore-dew.org; Bury Quay; adult/child €7/3.50; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat & noon-5pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat & noon-5pm Sun Oct-Apr) mixes intriguing local history with booze propaganda. Fortunately, the emphasis is on the former and engaging exhibits show the role of the Grand Canal in the town’s development. At the end of the tour you’ll get to sample what is