Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [448]
CHARLEVILLE CASTLE
Spires, turrets, clinging ivy and creaking trees combine to give this hulking structure a haunted feel. Charleville Castle ( 087 766 4110; www.charlevillecastle.com; adult/child €8/4, minimum 3 adults; regular tours noon-6pm Apr-Aug, by appointment Sep-May) was the family seat of the Burys, who commissioned the design in 1798 from Francis Johnston, one of Ireland’s most famous architects. The interior is spectacular, with stunning ceilings, one of the most striking Gothic-revival galleries in Ireland and a kitchen block built to resemble a country church.
Admission is by 35-minute tour only. If you’d like to help restore this pile, you can join groups of international volunteers; contact the castle for details. The entrance is off the N52, south of Tullamore. Frustration ensues if you go too far and reach Blue Ball, a village with hairy traffic.
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DETOUR: LOUGH BOORA
Much of County Offaly’s once extensive bogs were stripped of peat for electricity generation during the 20th century. One area, Lough Boora (www.loughbooraparklands.com), is now the focus of a scheme to restore its environment. Located 5km west of Blue Ball off the R357, there are over 50km of trails across the area with excellent birdwatching, rare flora, a mesolithic site and a series of impressive environmental sculptures (www.sculptureintheparklands.com) to explore.
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Sleeping & Eating
Ask at the tourist office for a list of local B&Bs.
Sea Dew ( 057-935 2054; www.seadewguesthouse.com; Clonminch Rd; s/d from €40/68; ) A purpose-built guesthouse just five minutes’ walk from the town centre, this welcoming place has 12 spacious but cosy rooms. There’s a lovely outdoor deck in the mature gardens and a play area for children. The guesthouse is just south of the town centre, off the N80.
Tullamore Court Hotel ( 057-934 6666; www.tullamorecourthotel.ie; O’Moore St; s/d from €75/110; ) This modern hotel on the edge of the centre has 104 elegant but corporate-style rooms at surprisingly reasonable rates. It has all the features you’d expect from a business hotel, including a great leisure centre.
Sirocco’s ( 057-935 2839; Patrick St; mains €11-24; noon-2.30pm Thu & Fri, 5-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-10.30pm Sun) Serving a good selection of fresh pasta and pizza, as well as meat, chicken and fish dishes, this simple little Italian bistro is a local favourite. Booking ahead is advised.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Bus Éireann stops at the train station, located south of town. From Tullamore there are buses to Dublin (€16, two hours, three daily), to Birr (€9.60, 30 minutes, one daily Monday to Friday) and to Waterford (€21, 3¼ hours, two daily) via Portlaoise, Carlow and Kilkenny.
Kearns Transport ( 057-912 0124; www.kearnstransport.com) also serves Birr and Dublin with several buses daily.
TRAIN
There are fast trains east to Dublin (€15 to €26, 1½ hours, 11 daily) and west to Galway (€15 to €28.50, 1½ hours, six daily), as well as Westport and Sligo. The station is on the southwest edge of the centre on Cormac St.
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DURROW ABBEY
Founded by St Colmcille (also known as St Columba) in the 6th century, Durrow Abbey is most famous for producing the illustrated Book of Durrow. The 7th-century text is the earliest of the great manuscripts to have survived – a remarkable feat considering it was recovered from a farm where it was dipped in the cattle’s drinking water to cure illnesses. It can be seen at Trinity College, Dublin.
The site contains five early-Christian gravestones and Durrow’s splendid 10th-century high cross, whose complex, high relief carvings depict the sacrifice of Isaac, the Last Judgement and the Crucifixion; it was possibly created by the same stonemason who carved the Cross of the Scriptures at Clonmacnoise. A laborious process of restoration is underway and some areas may be closed to visitors.
The path north past the church leads to St Colmcille’s Well, a place of pilgrimage marked by a small cairn.
Durrow Abbey is 7km north