Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [455]
Activities
The 110-seater boat Moon River ( 071-962 1777; www.moon-river.net; The Quay) runs one-hour cruises on the Shannon. There are one or two sailings per day (€15) between mid-March and October, increasing to four sailings during July and August; check the information board on the quay for details. The boat also has late-night cruises; Click here.
If you prefer to sail under your own steam, Carrick is the Shannon–Erne Waterway’s boat-hire capital, with several companies based at the Marina. The canal’s 16 locks are fully automated, you don’t need a licence, and you’re given full instructions on handling your boat before you set off. Make sure you pick up a chart of the waterway (available from bookshops and boat-hire companies), showing the depths and locations of locks. High-season prices start at around €1000 per week for a four-berth cruiser.
Hire companies:
Carrick Craft ( central reservations 01-278 1666, Carrick office 071-962 0236; www.carrickcraft.com; The Marina)
Emerald Star ( 071-962 7633; www.emeraldstar.ie; The Marina)
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THE SHANNON–ERNE WATERWAY
Ireland’s two main river systems, the Shannon and the Erne, were linked in the mid-1800s as part of a much-needed drainage scheme for the poor soil in the area. The canal was never a success however, and had already begun to deteriorate by the 1870s. In 1994 a far-sighted renovation project created a symbolic link between Northern Ireland and the Republic when the canal was reopened as the Shannon–Erne Waterway. It creates an amazing 750km network of rivers, lakes and artificial navigations. The waterway runs from the River Shannon beside the village of Leitrim, 4km north of Carrick-on-Shannon, through northwestern County Cavan to the southern shore of Upper Lough Erne, just over the Northern Ireland border in County Fermanagh.
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The annual regatta run by Carrick Rowing Club (www.carrickrowingclub.com) takes place on the first Sunday in August and draws a big crowd.
For information on fishing, contact the Carrick-on-Shannon Angling Club ( 071-962 0313; Ashleigh House).
Sleeping
Carrick has a good choice of accommodation, with plenty of B&Bs and a selection of large, rather characterless hotels. Ask at the tourist office for details. Camping is free on the Roscommon side of the riverbank, though there are no facilities. Tokens for the showers at the nearby Marina can be purchased from the Marina office.
An Oiche Hostel ( 071-962 1848; Bridge St; dm €25; ) The town’s only budget option is this basic hostel, hidden away above a vet’s surgery on Main St. There are four plain, single-sex dorms that are comfortable but pricey. There’s a small kitchen and sitting room for guest use.
Caldra House ( 071-962 3040; www.caldrahouse.ie; Caldragh; s/d €55/78; ) This creeper-clad Georgian house offers exceptional value, with four period-style rooms decorated with antiques and subtle floral patterns. Set in mature gardens overlooking the Arigna Mountains, it’s a very tranquil spot, 3km from town. Follow the R280 north out of town, turning left after 2km, then right at the T-junction.
Ciúin House ( 071-967 1488; www.ciuinhouse.com; Hartley; s €64.50-85, d €99-130; ) On the edge of town but within walking distance of the main street, this lovely purpose-built guesthouse has 15 spacious rooms with simple but stylish furnishings. Orthopaedic beds, Jacuzzi baths and crisp linens make it feel more like a hotel than a B&B. There’s also a restaurant on site (dinner mains €17 to €28) if you don’t feel like going out. To get here, follow Main St to its end, veering left onto Leitrim Rd and left again at the fork for Hartley.
Hollywell ( 071-962 1124; hollywell@esatbiz.com; Liberty Hill; r €90-110; mid-Feb–mid-Nov; ) This beautiful ivy-covered Georgian country house, on the Roscommon side of the river, has spacious, restful bedrooms with huge