Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [456]
For extra romance and old-world elegance, there are two luxury castle hotels within a few miles of Carrick. Check their websites for special offers.
Lough Rynn Castle ( 071-963 2700; www.loughrynn.ie; Mohill, Co Leitrim; r €135-185) A 19th-century pile set on 300 acres on the shores of Lough Rynn, about 10km east of Carrick.
Kilronan Castle ( 071-961 8000; www.kilronancastle.ie; Ballyfarnon, Co Roscommon; r €179-240) An imposing castle overlooking Lough Meelagh, about 10km northwest of Carrick.
Eating
Larder Cafe ( 071-965 0525; www.thelarder.ie; 4 Market Yard; dishes €4.50-7; 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Set in one of the restored stone buildings in Market Yard, this modern cafe is a popular lunch spot and serves a good selection of soups, sandwiches, cakes, gourmet coffees and fairtrade teas.
Vittos ( 071-962 7000; www.vittosrestaurant.com; Market Yard; mains €12-22; Tue-Sat) In a wood-beamed barn, this family-friendly restaurant has an extensive menu of classic Italian and more traditional Irish dishes, including great pastas and pizzas and some less-inspired grills. Service is fast and friendly and the atmosphere is warm and cosy.
Victoria Hall Restaurant ( 071-962 0320; www.victoriahall.ie; Victoria Hall, Quay Rd; mains €19-28; 12.30-10pm; ) The locals’ favourite for food, this graceful old parochial hall has had a thoroughly modern makeover and now has a stylish minimalist interior, with a lovely 1st-floor dining area. The open kitchen churns out excellent Asian- and European-inspired dishes, with bento boxes (€15.50) and boxty (a traditional potato pancake) wraps with Thai fillings (€11), the speciality at lunch.
The Oarsman ( 071-962 1733; www.theoarsman.com; Bridge St; lunch mains €9-13, dinner €22-28; noon-3pm & 5-8.30pm Tue-Sat) It may look like a pub from the outside, but The Oarsman serves restaurant-quality food in relaxed, informal surroundings. The menu ranges from traditional Irish with a contemporary twist to Asian-inspired dishes, cooked equally well. Snacks and bar food are served between lunch and dinner, and they pull a good pint, too.
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GRAZING YOUR WAY ALONG THE SHANNON
Cruising along the Shannon is a wonderful way to see some hidden corners of Ireland and attracts a leisurely crowd of boaters keen to relax, enjoy the views and eat well. Gastro pubs and gourmet restaurants have popped up all along the river banks, making a cruise along the Shannon a tempting way to sample the spoils of the lush Midlands pastures. Try Athlone and Carrick-on-Shannon for a great choice of fine-dining options or venture further afield to try some of the following:
Glasson Village Restaurant ( 090-648 5001; michaelrosebrooks@gmail.com; Glasson, Co Westmeath; mains €21-30; 6-9.30pm Tue-Sun, 12.30-2.30pm Sun) Pioneering gourmet restaurant with an informal atmosphere, specialising in seafood.
Keenans ( 043-332 6052; www.keenans.ie; Tarmonbarry, Co Roscommon; mains €16-28; 12.30-2.30pm daily & 6.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Spacious, modern restaurant with high ceilings, river views and wholesome, unpretentious food.
Old Fort ( 090-967 4973; www.theoldfortrestaurant.com; Shannonbridge, Co Roscommon; mains €19.50-29.50; 5-9.30pm Wed-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun) Posh nosh in the grand surroundings of a massive bridgehead, built as defence against Napoleon.
Purple Onion ( 043-335 9919; www.purpleonion.ie; Tarmonbarry, Co Roscommon; mains €15-28; 5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun, 12.30-3.30pm Sun) Popular old-world pub with great service and solid food.
Wineport Restaurant ( 090-643 9010; www.wineport.ie; Glasson, Co Westmeath; mains €25-37; 6-10pm Mon-Sun, 3-5pm Sun) A deservedly popular fine-dining spot, serving an ambitious international menu.
Yew Tree ( 090-666 1255; gerald.aherne@hotmail.com; Lecarrow, Co Roscommon; mains