Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [459]
The Shannon splits this former garrison town in two, with most businesses and services sitting on its eastern bank. In the shadow of Athlone Castle, the western bank is an enchanting jumble of twisting streets, colourfully painted houses, historic pubs, antique shops and old book binders, as well as some outstanding restaurants.
Orientation & Information
Athlone is on the main Dublin–Galway road (N6). The Shannon flows through the centre, with Athlone Castle and Sts Peter and Paul Cathedral prominently situated on the river’s western bank. The websites www.athlone.ie and www.discoverireland.ie/westmeath are good sources of information. You’ll find most of the main banks along Church St.
Netcafe ( 090-647 8888; 1 Paynes Lane; per hr €3.50; 11am-11pm)
Post office (Barrack St) Beside the cathedral.
Tourist office ( 090-649 4630; Athlone Castle; 9.30am-1pm & 2-5.15pm Mon-Fri May-Sep) Inside the castle guardhouse.
Sights & Activities
ATHLONE CASTLE
The ancient river ford at Athlone was an important crossroads on the Shannon and was the cause of many squabbles over the centuries. By 1210, the Normans had asserted their power and built a castle here. In 1690 the Jacobite town survived a siege by Protestant forces, but it fell a year later – under a devastating bombardment of 12,000 cannonballs – to William of Orange’s troops. The castle was soon remodelled and further major alterations took place over the following centuries.
The Athlone Castle Visitor Centre ( 090-649 2912; adult/child/family €6/1.70/12.50; 9.30am-4.30pm May-Sep) contains some informative displays on the Siege of Athlone, the flora and fauna of the Shannon, and the Shannon’s role in the production of hydroelectricity. Other highlights are an old gramophone that belonged to the great Athlone tenor John McCormack (1884–1945); and a military and folk museum with two sheila-na-gigs. An hour is probably enough time to take it all in.
RIVER CRUISES
If you fancy taking to the water, Viking Tours ( 086 262 1136; vikingtours@ireland.com; 7 St Mary’s Pl; May-Sep) offers cruises on the Shannon aboard a replica Viking longship, complete with costumed staff and dress-up clothes, including helmets, swords and shields for kids. Tours sail north to Lough Ree (adult/child/family €12/10/40, 75 minutes), and south to Clonmacnoise (adult/child/family €20/15/60, 4½ hours) in County Offaly. A round trip to Clonmacnoise allows a 90-minute stop at the ruins. There are usually daily sailings in June, July and August, plus sailings most days in May and September; call or ask the tourist office about schedules.
* * *
THROW AWAY YOUR GUIDEBOOK
Whether you’re on the water or travelling by road, there’s a host of interesting small towns and villages along and around the Shannon and the Royal and Grand Canals that make wonderfully tranquil stops. Most are rarely visited by touring motorists but are brimming with history, picturesque views and fine pubs.
In Leitrim you’ll find Ballinamore, a lively spot on the Shannon–Erne Waterway, and Drumshanbo, a wonderfully traditional town with an interesting visitor centre. Just to the south is Keshcarrigan, home to a collapsed dolmen and some unusual St Patrick’s Day festivities. Further west, Cootehall, on the River Boyle, has a fine restaurant and a lovely old-world pub. Nearby Knockvicar has a riverfront restaurant at its busy marina. Heading south, Drumsna is a lovely traditional country village, while nearby Dromod is well known for its excellent fishing. Tarmonbarry is another good stop, with a good choice of interesting restaurants and pubs, a swish hotel and a lively vibe. Nearby Clondra, where the Shannon meets the Royal Canal, is a stunning little place with lovely walks and Keenagh, further along the canal, is a sleepy but quaint little