Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [460]
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New outfit Shannon Safari ( 086 284 9108; www.shannonsafari.ie; 36 Silverquay) offers private hour-long powerboat cruises year-round for €200 per hour. Boats depart beside the Radisson hotel.
FISHING
Information and permits are available from the friendly Strand Tackle Shop ( 090-647 9277; powell@iol.ie; The Strand), on the eastern bank of the river opposite the castle.
Sleeping
Bastion B&B ( 090-649 4954; www.thebastion.net; 2 Bastion St; s €45-60, d €65-85) In a converted draper’s shop, this funky B&B’s white-on-white interiors are a canvas for eclectic artwork, cactus collections and Indian wall hangings. The five rooms (three with private bathroom) are crisp and clean, with neatly folded fluffy towels, and there’s an arty lounge–breakfast room, where you can kick-start your day with cereal, fruit, ground coffee, fresh bread and a cheeseboard.
Coosan Cottage Eco Guesthouse ( 090-647 3468; www.ecoguesthouse.com; Coosan Point Rd; s/d €50/100; ) This beautiful ecofriendly cottage was a labour of love for its owners, blendsing traditional style with modern thinking. Triple glazed windows, a wood pellet burner and a heat recovery system are just some of its green credentials. For visitors, though, it’s the tranquil surroundings and great breakfasts that will stick in the mind. The cottage is 2.5km from the town centre, with free pick-up if you’re coming by train or bus. Credit cards aren’t accepted.
Athlone Springs ( 090-644 4444; www.athlonespringshotel.com; Monksland; d from €120; ) This sleek, modern hotel on the outskirts of town makes a good alternative to the more predictable offerings elsewhere. Retro style carpets, designer furniture, slick finishes and a gleaming, split-level restaurant make it an attractive option. The spacious rooms are flooded with natural light and are suitably plush. The hotel is 3km west of town on the R362.
Eating
You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to dining in Athlone, which has established itself as the culinary capital of the Midlands. Scout around the western bank’s backstreets and you’ll unearth some gems.
Left Bank Bistro ( 090-649 4446; www.leftbankbistro.com; Fry Pl; lunch mains €5-14, dinner mains €22-29; noon-5pm & 5.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat) With airy, whitewashed interiors, shelves of gourmet goods, and a menu combining superior Irish ingredients with Mediterranean and Asian influences, this sophisticated deli-bistro attracts those in the know. Lunch features bowls of steaming pasta, big salads and chunky open sandwiches, while dinner dishes up beautifully grilled meat and fish and some extraordinary desserts.
Olive Grove ( 090-647 6946; www.theolivegrove.ie; Custume Pl; lunch mains €6.50-12.50, dinner mains €17-27; noon-4pm & 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun) This slick waterside restaurant gets rave reviews from happy punters keen on the stylish design and creative menu. Go for prawn laska or baked camembert followed by chilli-garlic pork rack with a bean ragout or duck breast with poached pear flavoured with star anise.
Kin Khao ( 090-649 8805; www.kinkhaothai.ie; Abbey Lane; mains €16-22; 12.30-2.30pm Wed-Fri, 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-10.30pm Sun) What is possibly the best Thai restaurant in Ireland is tucked away near the castle and is renowned for its extensive menu of authentic dishes. All the chefs and staff are Thai (with the exception of one half of the husband and wife team who run the place) and you’d be advised to book ahead if you want to join the band of loyal Kin Khao devotees.
Le Château ( 090-649 4517; Peter’s Port; mains €17-25; 5.30-10pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-9.30pm Sun) Another Athlone favourite, this classy joint has a split-level timber dining room glowing with flickering candles. The menu features traditional Irish favourites spiced up with speciality and local produce. Expect plenty of meat dishes. Sunday lunch is particularly popular.
Drinking & Entertainment
Sean’s Bar ( 090-649 2358; 13 Main St) Age certainly hasn’t wearied Sean’s Bar. Dating way back to AD 900, Sean’s stakes its claim as Ireland’s oldest pub. Its log fires, uneven floors