Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [468]
Further excavations are likely to continue for the next decade at least so you may see archaeologists at work when you visit.
DOWTH
The circular mound at Dowth is similar in size to Newgrange – about 63m in diameter – but is slightly taller at 14m high. It has suffered badly at the hands of everyone from road builders and treasure hunters to amateur archaeologists, who scooped out the centre of the tumulus in the 19th century. For a time, Dowth even had a tearoom ignobly perched on its summit. Relatively untouched by modern archaeologists, Dowth shows what Newgrange and Knowth looked like for most of their history. Because it’s unsafe, Dowth is closed to visitors, though the mound can be viewed from the road between Newgrange and Drogheda. Excavations began in 1998 and will continue for years to come.
Dowth has two entrance passages leading to separate chambers (both sealed), and a 24m early-Christian underground passage at either end, which connect up with the western passage. This 8m-long passage leads into a small cruciform chamber, in which a recess acts as an entrance to an additional series of small compartments, a feature unique to Dowth. To the southwest is the entrance to a shorter passage and smaller chamber.
North of the tumulus are the ruins of Dowth Castle and Dowth House.
Tours
Brú na Bóinne is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ireland, and there are oodles of organised tours transporting busloads of eager tourists to the visitor centre. Most depart from Dublin.
The Mary Gibbons Tours ( 01-283 9973; www.newgrangetours.com; tour €35) are highly recommended. Tours depart from numerous Dublin hotels, beginning at 9.30am Monday to Saturday, and take in the whole of the Boyne Valley including Newgrange and the Hill of Tara. The expert guides offer a fascinating insight into Celtic and pre-Celtic life in Ireland, and you’ll get access to Newgrange even on days when all visiting slots are filled.
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FIONN & THE SALMON OF KNOWLEDGE
One of the best-known stories in the Fenian Cycle tells of the Salmon of Knowledge, a fish that, once consumed, would bestow enormous wisdom on the eater, including the gift of foresight. An old Druid, Finegas, struggled for seven years to catch the salmon, but only managed to land the elusive fish at a time when a young Fionn McCumhaill was at his camp receiving tuition. As befits the inevitable tragedy of these stories, Finegas set the fish to cook and left Fionn to turn it over the fire, ordering him not to eat so much as the smallest bite. But as Fionn turned the spit a drop of hot oil from the fish landed on his thumb, which he quickly put in his mouth to soothe. Finegas returned, saw what had happened and knew that it was too late; he bade Fionn eat the rest of the fish and so it was that Fionn acquired wisdom and foresight.
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Bus Éireann ( 01-836 6111; www.buseireann.ie; adult/child €30/25; Mon-Thu, Sat & Sun mid-Mar–Sep) runs Newgrange and Boyne Valley tours departing from Busáras (Map; Store St) in Dublin at 10am, returning at approximately 5.45pm.
Sleeping & Eating
Drogheda is close to Brú na Bóinne and has many hotels, while the nearby village of Slane is good for lunch. There are some excellent sleeping options close to the sites, and the visitor centre itself has a good cafe.
Newgrange Lodge ( 041-988 2478; www.newgrangelodge.com; dm/s/d €18/45/70; ) Just east of the Brú na Bóinne visitor centre, you’ll find this converted farmhouse with a choice of cosy rooms varying from dorms with four to 10 beds, to hotel-standard rooms with TVs and internet access. Reception is open 24 hours, there’s a kitchen for guest use,