Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [469]
Glebe House ( 041-983 6101; www.theglebehouse.ie; Dowth; s/d €60/120; ) This charming, wisteria-clad 17th-century country house has four lovely rooms with log fires, purple carpet and a cosy atmosphere. It’s a really beautiful spot, set in mature gardens with wonderful views of the Boyne Valley. Glebe House is 7km west of Drogheda on the road between Newgrange and Dowth.
Rossnaree ( 041-982 0975; www.rossnaree.ie; Newgrange; s/d €100/160; Apr-Dec; ) At a sharp corner on the narrow road between Donore and Slane is this magnificent Italianate country house overlooking the Boyne and surrounded by a working farm. The lavish bedrooms are luxuriously furnished, and you can book dinner (€45) a day in advance. The events related in Fionn and the Salmon of Knowledge (above) are said to have taken place on this very spot.
Getting There & Away
From Drogheda, Bus Éireann ( 041-983 5023) runs a service that drops you off at the entrance to the visitor centre (€3.50, 20 minutes, five daily).
Newgrange Shuttlebus ( 1800 424 252; www.overthetoptours.com; return ticket €18) runs one or two trips daily to the Brú na Bóinne visitor centre from central Dublin. Book in advance.
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BATTLE OF BOYNE SITE
More than 60,000 soldiers of the armies of King James II and King William III fought on this patch of farmland on the border of counties Meath and Louth in 1690. In the end, William prevailed and James sailed off to France. Today, the battle site ( 041-980 9950; www.battleoftheboyne.ie; adult/child €4/2; 10am-6pm May-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-Apr, last admission one hr before closing) is part of the Oldbridge Estate farm. At the visitor centre you can watch a short show about the battle, see original and replica weaponry of the time and explore a laser battlefield model. Self-guided walks through the parkland and battle site are eerily low key, allowing ample time to think about the events that saw Protestant interests remain in Ireland. The site, 3km north of Donore, is signposted off the N51.
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LAYTOWN
Most famous as the site for the only official beach-run horse race in Europe, Laytown is a sleepy seaside village for most of the year. In late August or early September, though, the bookies, punters and jockeys descend in force. Laytown races have been held here for over 140 years; for one day Laytown’s 3km of golden sand are transformed into a racecourse, attracting a diverse crowd of locals, celebrities and die-hard racing fans.
Just outside Laytown on the road to Julianstown is Sonairte ( 041-982 7572; www.sonairte.org; The Ninch, Laytown; adult/child €3/1, free if arriving on foot or by bike; 10.30am-5pm Wed-Sun), the National Ecology Centre. Dedicated to promoting ecological awareness, it’s a wonderful place to learn about sustainable living and organic horticulture. You can take a guided tour of the organic gardens and 200-year-old orchard, follow the nature trail or river walk, or take a course in anything from beekeeping to foraging for wild food and organic gardening. There’s a shop and organic cafe on site. The centre is five minutes walk from Laytown train station. Trains to Dublin run every half hour (€13, 50 minutes).
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SLANE
pop 1099
The pretty village of Slane, with its pleasant 18th-century stone houses and cottages, slithers down a steep hill to the River Boyne. A planned estate village, Slane grew up around the enormous castle after which it was named. At the junction of the main roads are four identical houses facing each other: local lore has it that they were built for four sisters who had taken an intense dislike to one another and kept a beady-eyed watch from their individual residences. The massive grey gate to the privately owned castle lies southwest of the town centre.
Slane makes a convenient base for Brú na Bóinne, located 6km east. For more information visit www.slanetourism.com.
Orientation
Slane is perched on a hillside at the junction of the N2 and N51, some 15km west of