Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [470]
Sights
HILL OF SLANE
About 1km north of the village is the Hill of Slane, a fairly plain-looking mound that only stands out for its association with a thick slice of Celto-Christian mythology. According to legend, St Patrick lit a paschal (Easter) fire here in AD 433 to proclaim Christianity throughout the land. Patrick’s fire infuriated Laoghaire, the pagan high king of Ireland, who had expressly ordered that no fire be lit within sight of the Hill of Tara. Thankfully – at least for the future of Irish Christians – he was restrained by his far-sighted druids, who warned that ‘the man who had kindled the flame would surpass kings and princes’. Laoghaire went to meet Patrick, and all but one of the king’s attendants – a man called Erc – greeted Patrick with scorn.
Here the story really gets far-fetched. During the meeting, Patrick killed one of the king’s guards and summoned an earthquake to subdue the rest. After his Herculean efforts, Patrick calmed down a little and plucked a shamrock from the ground, using its three leaves to explain the paradox of the Holy Trinity – the union of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit in one. Laoghaire wasn’t convinced, but he agreed to let Patrick continue his missionary work. Patrick’s success that day – apart from keeping his own life, starting an earthquake and giving Ireland one of its enduring national symbols – was good old Erc, who was baptised and later became the first bishop of Slane. To this day, the local parish priest lights a fire here on Holy Saturday.
The Hill of Slane originally had a church associated with St Erc and, later, a round tower and monastery, but only an outline of the foundations remains. Later a motte and bailey were constructed, which are still visible on the western side of the hill. You can also see the remains of a ruined church and tower that were once part of an early-16th-century Franciscan friary. On a clear day, from the top of the tower, which is always open, you can see the Hill of Tara and the Boyne Valley, as well as (it’s said) seven Irish counties.
SLANE CASTLE
The private residence of Lord Henry Conyngham, Earl of Mountcharles, Slane Castle ( 041-988 4400; www.slanecastle.ie; adult/child €7/5; noon-5pm Sun-Thu mid-May–Aug) is west of the town centre along the Navan road and is best known in Ireland as the setting for major outdoor rock concerts.
Built in 1785 in the Gothic-revival style by James Wyatt, the building was later altered by Francis Johnson for George IV’s visits to Lady Conyngham. She was allegedly his mistress, and it’s said the road between Dublin and Slane was built especially straight and smooth to speed up the randy king’s journeys.
In 1991, the castle was gutted by a fire, whereupon it was discovered that the earl was underinsured. A major fundraising drive – of which the summer concerts were a part – led to a painstaking restoration and the castle finally reopened for tours in 2001.
Tours include the neo-Gothic Ballroom, completed in 1821, and the Kings Room, where the monarch stayed while visiting his mistress.
U2’s 1984 album The Unforgettable Fire was recorded here (though the castle featured on the album cover is in Moydrum in County Westmeath) and the band have returned on several occasions to play massive open-air concerts in the castle grounds.
LEDWIDGE MUSEUM
Simple yet moving, the Ledwidge Museum ( 041-982 4544; www.francisledwidge.com; Janesville; adult/child €2.50/1; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm) is located in the birthplace of poet Francis Ledwidge (1891–1917). He died on the battlefield at Ypres, having survived Gallipoli and Serbia. A keen political activist, Ledwidge was thwarted in his efforts to set up a branch of the Gaelic League in the area, but found an outlet in verse.
The museum provides an insight into Ledwidge’s life and works and the cottage itself is a good example of how farm labourers lived in the 19th century. It is about 1.5km east of Slane on the Drogheda road (N51).
Sleeping & Eating
Slane