Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [491]
Crannógs were used as defended farmsteads, craft centres and storage places for valuables (for example, during 9th-century Viking raids) and became important rebel hideouts during the Nine Years’ War.
There are over 1200 crannógs in Ireland (mainly in Cavan, Monaghan, Leitrim and Fermanagh), but few have been properly excavated. Those that have give tantalising glimpses of turbulent crannóg life with the remains of the manacled, mutilated skeletons of slaves and hostages turning up with alarming regularity.
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The town’s famous crystal is displayed at the Cavan Crystal Showroom ( 049-433 1800; www.cavancrystaldesign.com; Dublin Rd; admission free; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun). It also sells a wide variety of local crafts. The showroom is about 2km southeast of the town centre on the N3.
If you’re interested in tracing your Cavan roots, Cavan Genealogy ( 049-436 1094; cavangenealogy@eircom.net; Central Library, Farnham St; assessment fee €95, single search €25; 9.15am-5pm Mon-Fri) can pore over one million records for you, but you cannot perform a search of the archives yourself.
Sleeping & Eating
Ballycloone House ( 049-436 2310; michaelobrien53@eircom.net; Golf Links Rd; s/d €51/76; ) This large modern house surrounded by gardens has bright, cosy rooms with country-style furnishings and plenty of space. It’s on a quiet road close to the hospital about 2km from the town centre.
Farnham Estate ( 049-437 7700; www.farnhamestate.ie; Cavan; d from €130; ) Set in misty woodlands, this sprawling 16th-century estate is part of the Radisson SAS group. The luxurious rooms blend contemporary style with period features and character, there’s a garden-view restaurant, an indoor/outdoor swimming pool and a fantastic spa (also open to non-guests). The estate’s 3km west of town on the R198.
Chapter One ( 049-437 3488; 24 Main St; mains €6-8; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; ) Heaving at lunchtime when locals sweep in to dine on the huge range of filled bagels, this place is one of the town’s most popular cafes. As well as the bagels you’ll find soups, lasagne and various specials such as quesadillas in this friendly, informal spot.
Oak Room ( 049-437 1414; www.theoakroom.ie; 62 Main St; mains €18-30; 5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat) You’ll find fine modern Irish cuisine on offer at this popular restaurant. The decor is minimalist with eclectic art on the walls, but the menu is ambitious and relies heavily on local ingredients with suppliers listed for each dish.
Getting There & Around
Buses arrive at and depart from the small bus station ( 049-433 1353; Farnham St). There are 10 services daily to Dublin (€13.50, two hours), four daily to Donegal (€17.50, two hours), and three daily (one on Sunday) to Belfast (€20, three hours) and Galway (€21.50, 3¼ hours).
There are also various services to small towns throughout the county including three services daily to Ballyconnell and Belturbet, and buses leaving on the hour to Virginia and Kells.
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AROUND CAVAN TOWN
Lough Oughter & Killykeen Forest Park
Rod-wielding anglers congregate at Lough Oughter, which splatters across the map like spilt liquid. Coarse fishing aside, the wildlife-rich lough is also idyllic for naturalists, walkers and anyone wanting to vanish into a landscape of shimmering waters and cathedral-like aisles of trees. It’s best accessed via Killykeen Forest Park ( 049-433 2541; www.coillteoutdoors.ie; car €5, pedestrians & cyclists free), 12km northwest of Cavan, where various nature trails (from 1.5km to 5.8km) lead you through the woods and along the shore. Keep an eye out for stoats, badgers, foxes, grey squirrels and hedgehogs, as well as some amazing birdlife.
Many of the low overgrown islands in the lake were crannógs (fortified, artificial islands,