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see opposite for more detail). The most spectacular is home to Clough Oughter Castle, a 13th-century circular tower perched on a tiny speck of land. It was used as a lonely prison, then as a stronghold by rebel leader Owen Roe O’Neill, who was (probably) poisoned there in 1649, before it was destroyed by Cromwell’s army in 1653. Although the castle lies out of reach over the water, it’s worth getting near for the view: go on foot via the forest trails, or get a closer look by car by turning left out of the Killykeen park exit and following the narrow road running north from the village of Garthrattan.

Butlersbridge & Cloverhill

Heading north from Cavan along the N3 and N54 you’ll pass the two pretty villages of Butlersbridge and Cloverhill. Set on the banks of the River Annalee, Butlersbridge is a good place for a riverside picnic. If it’s not picnic weather, pop into the Derragarra Inn ( 049-433 1003), an ivy-covered pub with a wood-beamed interior, beer garden, live music at weekends and good bar food.

The lovely little village of Cloverhill is home to the award-winning Olde Post Inn ( 047-55555; www.theoldepostinn.com; 5-course dinner €56; 6.30-9pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 6.30-8.30pm Sun; ). This restaurant serves outstanding modern Irish cuisine based on traditional ingredients such as suckling pig, venison, pheasant and steak. The rooms (single/double €60/100) are modern and tasteful, but rather cramped.

Belturbet

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In a prime position on the Shannon–Erne Waterway (Click here), this charming, old-fashioned village, 16km northwest of Cavan, is a fisherman’s favourite. It’s also a busy base for cruise boats, and a good starting point for a cycling trip along the canal and river system.

You can hire a boat from Emerald Star ( 049-952 2933; www.emeraldstar.ie; per week two-/five-berth €1043/1510; Apr-Oct) to cruise between Belturbet and Belleek. Alternatively, bike hire and route advice is available at Fitz Hire ( 049-952 2866; fitzpatrickhire@eircom.net; Belturbet Business Park, Creeney; per day/week €15/45).

The beautifully restored Belturbet Railway Station ( 049-952 2074; www.belturbet-station.com; Railway Rd; admission by donation; by appointment) houses a visitor centre exploring the history of rail travel in the area. Trains used the station from 1885 until 1959, after which it languished for 40 years. Call in advance if you’d like to visit.

The cosiest accommodation option in town is the cherry-coloured Church View Guest House ( 049-952 2358; www.churchviewguesthouse.com; 8 Church St; s\d €40\70; ), but book ahead as it’s perennially busy with anglers thanks to its cold storeroom and proximity to the lakes.

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CHEESE MAKING

Hard pasteurised goat’s cheese is something of a rarity, and prize-winning Corleggy Cheese ( 049-952 2930; www.corleggy.com; Belturbet) is particularly rare due to its small production runs. Corleggy uses vegetarian rennet and is washed in sea brine, with subtle flavours thanks to the grassy grazing pastures surrounding the farmhouse where the cheese is handmade. A number of other cheeses including cow’s- and sheep’s-milk cheeses are also produced here, with flavours including garlic and red pepper, smoked cheese, cumin, and green peppercorn.

You can stop by the farmhouse to buy Corleggy cheese direct from the source (but call in advance to check someone is around), pick some up at Belturbet Farmers Market on Fridays from 4pm to 6pm or Dublin’s Meeting House Sq Market in Temple Bar.

If you want to learn how to make cheese yourself, cheesemaker Silke Cropp runs several cheese-making courses each summer. Courses take place on Sundays from 10am to 5pm and cost €150, which includes an organic lunch with wine. Afterwards you’ll have your own kilo of cheese to take with you. BYO bucket.

Corleggy’s farmhouse is located 2.5km north of Belturbet village. Coming along the N3 from Cavan into Belturbet village, turn right at the point the main road takes a sharp left, then take your first left and follow it for just on 2.5km; you’ll see Corleggy’s sign on your left.