Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [494]
For relaxation of a more luxurious kind, the Slieve Russell Hotel ( 049-952 6444; www.slieverussell.ie; Cranaghan; s/d from €110/160; ), 2km southeast of town, is famed for its marble columns, fountains, restaurants, bars, and an 18-hole golf course. Spa treatments include flotation tanks, a herbal sauna and a salt grotto.
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BALLY WHO?
All over Ireland you’ll see the town prefix ‘Bally’ (and variations thereof, such as Ballyna and Ballina). The ubiquitous term originates from the Irish phrase ‘Baile na’. It’s often mistranslated as ‘town’, but there were very few towns in Ireland when the names came about. A closer approximation is ‘place of’ (similar to the French expression chez). Hence Ballyjamesduff, for example, means Place of James Duff (or James Duff’s place). Dublin’s Irish name was Baile Átha Cliath (Place of the Hurdle Ford). If it was anglicised, it too would be a Bally; spelt something like ‘Ballycleeagh’.
Other common place names – especially in the central northern counties – include Carrick (or Carrig), meaning ‘rock’ in Irish, such as Carrickmacross (Rock of MacRoss/MacRoss’ rock) in County Monaghan; and Dun, from the Irish dún (meaning ‘fort’), such as Dundalk (Dún Dealgan, the Fort of Dalga) and Dunderry (Dún Doire, Fort of the Oak Grove).
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Blacklion & Around
pop 174
Traversed by the Cavan Way, the area between Blacklion and Dowra is littered with prehistoric monuments, including the remains of a cashel (stone-walled circular fort) and the ruins of several sweathouses, used mostly in the 19th century.
Dedicated foodies make the pilgrimage to Blacklion’s MacNean House & Restaurant ( 071-985 3022; www.macneanrestaurant.com; Main St; five-course dinner menu €50-70, four-course Sunday lunch €35; 6.30-9.30pm Thu-Sat, 7-8.30pm Sun, 12.30 & 2.30pm Sunday lunch sitting, closed Jan; ), run by award-winning TV chef Neven Maguire, who grew up in this gorgeous country house and has turned it into one of the country’s finest restaurants. The food here is a celebration of local and seasonal produce, and is truly outstanding. Feast on chestnut and mushroom soup, carpaccio of beetroot and goats cheese, or wild sea bass with truffle ravioli. From April to September you can also stay overnight in one of the beautiful rooms (single/double €80/140). Book well in advance.
Westport–Belfast buses stop in Blacklion five times daily from Monday to Saturday (twice on Sunday). Buses stop in front of Maguire’s pub.
Cuilcagh Mountain Park
The border between the Republic and Northern Ireland runs along the ridge of Cuilcagh Mountain, the distinctive table-top summit of this park. Its lower slopes are important protected peatland habitats, while the upper slopes have dramatic sweeping cliffs. The visitor centre and the park’s biggest attraction, the Marble Arch Caves, lie a short hop over the border from Blacklion, in County Fermanagh.
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DETOUR: JAMPA LING BUDDHIST CENTRE
If you’re on a quest for enlightenment, or just seeking some time out, the Jampa Ling Buddhist Centre ( 049-952 3448; www.jampaling.org; Owendoon House, Bawnboy; dm/s self-catering €20/30, incl meals €35/40), in a beautiful country setting, is peace on earth. Jampa Ling, meaning ‘Place of Infinite Loving Kindness’, offers courses, retreats and workshops (about €45 to €60 per day, €215 to €275 per weekend) on Buddhist teachings, philosophy, meditation, yoga, and medicinal and culinary herbs. Though you don’t have to take part in a course to stay here, accommodation may not be available if there is an event on. All meals, which are included in the day courses and for overnight guests, are vegetarian.
From Ballyconnell, follow the signs to Bawnboy. In the village, turn left at the petrol station and follow the small road for 3km. Continue past the lake and a series of bends; you’ll