Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [495]
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COUNTY MONAGHAN
Monaghan’s quiet, undulating landscape is littered with lakes and tiny rounded hills resembling bubbles in badly pasted wallpaper. Known as drumlins, the bumps are the result of debris left by retreating glaciers during the last Ice Age. The county’s steely grey lakes attract plenty of anglers, but few others make it here, making it a tranquil place to roam.
Unlike much of the province, Monaghan was largely left alone during the Ulster Plantation. After the Cromwellian wars though, local chieftains were forced to sell their land for a fraction of its true value, or have it seized and redistributed to Cromwell’s soldiers.
In the early 19th century, lace making became an important facet of the local economy, providing work and income for women. Clones and Carrickmacross were the two main centres of the industry and you can still see the fine needlework on display in both towns.
More recently however, Monaghan has been made famous by poet Patrick Kavanagh (1905–67), who was born in Inniskeen. The village’s literary resource centre now offers an evocative insight into his life and work.
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MONAGHAN TOWN
pop 6221
It may be the county town, but Monaghan’s residents live their lives utterly unaffected by tourism. The main visitor attraction is the county museum, containing an extensive regional collection, but it’s also pleasant to wander the streets admiring the elegant 18th- and 19th-century limestone buildings.
Orientation & Information
Monaghan is squashed between two small lakes, Peter’s Lake to the north, and Convent Lake in the southwest. Its principal streets form a rough arc, broken up by the town’s three main squares. From east to west these are Church Sq, the Diamond (the Ulster name for a town square) and Old Cross Sq, all of which are prone to traffic congestion.
To the west of this arc, at the top of Park St, is Clones Rd and the tourist office ( 047-81122, 047-73718; www.monaghantourism.com; Clones Rd; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri mid-May–mid-Sep).
Sights & Activities
Monaghan County Museum and Gallery ( 047-82928; comuseum@monaghancoco.ie; 1-2 Hill St; admission free; 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat) is an excellent regional museum, containing over 70,000 artefacts from the Stone Age to modern times. Its crowning glory is the 14th-century Cross of Clogher, an oaken altar cross encased in decorative bronze panels. Other impressive finds include the Lisdrumturk and Altartate Cauldrons, medieval crannóg artefacts, and some frightening knuckle-dusters and cudgels relating to the border with the North.
As you wander around town, look out for the Dawson Monument (1857), in Church Sq – a hefty obelisk commemorating Colonel Dawson’s unfortunate demise in the Crimean War. Overlooking it is the Gothic St Patrick’s Church and a stately Doric courthouse (1829). Heading west you’ll find the Rossmore Memorial (c 1875), an over-the-top Victorian drinking fountain that dominates the Diamond. The town also has a number of buildings with gently rounded corners, which is an unusual architectural feature in Ireland.
Just out of the centre of town on the Dublin road is another piece of Victorian whimsy, the mock-14th-century St Macartan’s Catholic Cathedral (1861), topped by a teetering 77m-high, needle-sharp spire.
Fine fishing abounds in the area; contact Venture Sports ( 047-81495; 71 Glaslough St) for permits, tackle and local knowledge.
Sleeping & Eating
Ashleigh House ( 047-81227; 37 Dublin St; s/d €50/80; ) Right in the centre of town, this 10-room B&B has been recently refurbished and offers good value rooms. All rooms have a private bathroom and are tastefully decorated; there’s a small garden area for guests.
Hillgrove Hotel ( 047-81888; www.hillgrovehotel.com; Old Armagh Rd; s\d from €100\140; ) This large, corporate-style hotel has 87 bright, modern rooms that are tastefully decorated but lack a little character. There’s a great pool and leisure centre and a spa