Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [568]
What was it like growing up in Derry during the Troubles? Kevin: ‘One minute nobody knows about us or Derry or even Northern Ireland; the next thing, we are all over the international news. You could watch the daily riot later on TV in your own front room. As kids, you must understand we were still on fantasy island, as most kids are. Soldiers were, to us, aliens from another planet. We painted the soldier as such on our Bloody Sunday mural depicting the death of Jackie Duddy for that reason. That was our perception at the time and kids tend to see things bereft of all historical or other considerations. All in all, our growing up in Derry at that time could be described as very intense and very bitter-sweet.’
Will: ‘We felt that our destiny had come. We were well clued-up on Marxist doctrine and, what with the riots in Paris and the struggle of the black population in America for democratic rights, we truly believed we were part of a global working-class revolution. A new world order was coming into being and we were in the front line. As a young man, the unfolding events faced one with questions of ultimate concern at a time when, in other circumstances, we would likely have been thinking of finding a secure job and starting a family. Individualistic pursuits had to be shelved in the face of imminent threats to oneself and one’s family. In retrospect, the whole experience was very hyper-real. During the Hunger Strikes of 1980–81 it became surreal.’
Whose art do you admire? Will: ‘Those old masters like Raphael, Mantegna, the Tiepolos and Michelangelo cannot be equalled when it comes to mural art. Diego Rivera was summoned from Paris 20 years or so after the revolution, so we are not as impressed by his work as those who have bought into the myth of Rivera as a contemporary freedom fighter. Incidentally, he did not portray Mexico’s history as it was. What he did was offer a Marxist interpretation of that history. Not that we compare ourselves to Rivera. His body of work far exceeds our own. But we do recall one lady who came to our studio and told us that she had just returned from Mexico and considered our murals to be better than his! Go figure, as they say.’
Which of the Bogside murals means the most to you? Tom: ‘The Death of Innocence, for me, is the one that stands out, both the pictorial content of it and the fact that it is a peace and antiwar mural painted long before any of us in Derry thought peace was even possible.’
Kevin: ‘Our Peace Mural means most to me, as we decided to do that 10 years before we were actually able to get around to realising it. Also, it had a strong community input where both Catholic and Protestant kids worked together to help design it. The dove, in fact, is not just a cliché – it refers to our city’s patron saint, St Columba, whose Latin name Columbanus means ‘dove’.’
Will: ‘They’re like our children – it’s unfair to single any one out at the expense of the others. That said, it would be dishonest not to admit that our first-born, The Petrol Bomber, is a wee bit special.’
What is Derry like to visit? Will: ‘We all agree that Derry is a very special city that is fast becoming the cultural focus of not only the North of Ireland but Ireland as a whole. It is a big city with the ambience and character of a village. The sense of freedom of the people, young and old, is truly infectious. You could pick any Derryman or woman and put them on stage for their wit alone. In short, Derry is fun. The girls here are very pretty, too!
Above all, get to meet the locals, whom you will likely find enjoying a Guinness or two in the pubs. Have they got stories to tell! There’s also a great view of the city and the lough from the hill of Creggan.’
Tom: ‘Peadar O’Donnell’s Click here is the best place for traditional Irish music. The Craft Village I would recommend for lunch or a quiet drink.