Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [569]
Kevin: ‘For older visitors, the Tower Hotel (Map; 7137 1000; www.towerhotelderry.com; Butcher St) has good Irish music sessions that are very popular.’
Will: ‘A short trip over the border to Buncrana will present you with more options, as well as a neat little beach where you can nurse your hangover the next morning.’
How do you see the future of Derry over the next 10 years? Will: ‘There is a covert rivalry going on between Derry and Belfast with regards to the creative arts that is reminiscent of the rivalry between Rome and Florence during the High Renaissance. It is a healthy rivalry that will bring out the very best in both cities. Alas, Dublin has sacrificed its old-world charm to commercialism, to the extent that neither Joyce, Beckett nor Behan would be able to recognise it if they came back. Dublin has painted itself out of the picture, frankly. It is fast becoming another Blackpool.’
Tom: ‘With massive investment from Britain and America, the rapid growth of tourism and stronger economic relations between North and South, things can only get better for the people of Derry, especially for those of us who have lived through over 30 years of conflict. When you know how bad it can really get, you become grateful for what you have. Thankfully, we have plenty here to enjoy.’
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City Tours (Map; 7127 1996; www.irishtourguides.com; Carlisle Stores, 11 Carlisle Rd) Runs one-hour Historic Derry walking tours starting from Carlisle Stores at 10am, noon and 2pm year-round and costing £4/2 per adult/child. There are also tours of the Bogside and of Derry’s murals.
Derry Tourist Information Centre (Map; 7126 7284; 44 Foyle St) Offers 1½-hour guided walking tours of the walled city for £6/4 per adult/child, starting from the bureau at 11.15am Monday to Friday year-round. The price includes admission to St Columb’s Cathedral.
Foyle Cruise Line (Map; 7136 2857; www.foylecruiseline.com; Harbour Museum, Harbour Sq) Operates daily cruises on the Foyle estuary. Trips to Culmore Bay (1¼ hours) cost £8/5 per adult/child and depart at 2pm; four-hour evening cruises to Greencastle with bar and entertainment cost £12/10 per adult/child, and depart at 8pm.
Festivals & Events
City of Derry Jazz Festival ( 7137 6545; www.cityofderryjazzfestival.com; early May) Four days of jazz at various venues.
Foyle Days ( 7137 6504; www.derrycity.gov.uk/foyledays; mid Jun) River-based festival with visiting navy ships, yacht races, boat trips, live music and shore-side street entertainment.
Gasyard Wall Féile ( 7136 6931; Jul) A major cultural festival that features live music, street performers, carnival, theatre and Irish-language events.
City of Derry Guitar Festival ( 7137 5550; www.cityofderryguitarfestival.com; late Aug) The grounds of University of Ulster host performances and master classes from guitar greats around the world, including classical, acoustic, electric, flamenco and bass.
Halloween Carnival ( 7137 6545; www.derrycity.gov.uk/halloween; 27-31 Oct) Ireland’s biggest street party has the entire city dressing up and dancing in the streets.
Foyle Film Festival ( 7126 7432; www.foylefilmfestival.com; Nov) This week-long event is the North’s biggest film festival.
Sleeping
It’s best to book accommodation in advance during festival events.
BUDGET
Derry City Independent Hostel (Map; 7128 0542; www.derry-hostel.co.uk; 44 Great James St; dm/d from £12/36; ) Run by experienced backpackers and decorated with souvenirs from their travels around the world, this small, friendly hostel is set in a Georgian town house, just a short walk northwest of the bus station. They have an annexe nearby called Dolce Vita, with stylishly decorated double rooms aimed at couples.
Derry Palace Hostel (Map; 7130 9051; www.paddyspalace.com; 1 Woodleigh Tce, Asylum Rd; dm from £12; ) Part of the Ireland-wide Paddy’s Palace chain, this hostel is central, comfortable and as friendly as they come. There’s a sunny garden, a good party atmosphere and the staff regularly organise nights out at local pubs with traditional music.