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¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

One 2-pound skinless swordfish steak, cut horizontally into 6 thin slices (about ⅓ inch thick; see the note on page 125)

TOASTING PINE NUTS

Toasting pine nuts brings out their flavor. To toast them, put them on a small baking sheet or in a pie pan and toast in a preheated 350°F oven for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Once the nuts start to color, they will darken rapidly, so keep an eye on them, and transfer them a plate to cool as soon as they are done. If you need only a couple of tablespoons of toasted nuts, you can toast them in a small heavy skillet over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Pour onto a plate and let cool.

IN A MEDIUM BOWL, combine the tomatoes, olives, capers, currants, pine nuts, pepper flakes, and olive oil and stir gently to mix. Set aside (don’t refrigerate).

Grate the zest from the oranges; set aside. Using a sharp paring knife or serrated knife, cut off the top and bottom of 1 orange to expose the flesh (reserve the other orange for another use). Stand it upright on a work surface and slice off the skin and bitter white pith, working from top to bottom and following the natural curve of the fruit, then trim away any remaining pith. To remove the segments, carefully cut each one away from the membranes, sliding the knife down either side to release it. Set aside in a small bowl.

In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs, parsley, reserved orange zest, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste, mixing well with your hands or a fork.

Cut twelve 9-inch-long pieces of kitchen twine. Season each slice of swordfish with salt and pepper. Lay out on a work surface and divide the bread crumb mixture among the slices, spreading it evenly. Starting from a narrow end, carefully roll each one up like a jelly roll and tie with 2 pieces of twine. Place on a plate and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

Brush the swordfish rolls all over with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and season again with salt and pepper. Place on the hottest part of the grill and cook for 2 minutes. Gently turn over 90 degrees with tongs and cook for 1 minute, then repeat twice to cook on all sides.

To serve, season the tomato salad with a little salt and spread out on a platter. Place the involtini on the tomatoes, and garnish with the orange segments.

Sicilians make involtini out of almost everything. This is a summery version of a traditional swordfish involtini, with the stuffed rollatini cooked on the grill and accompanied by a fresh tomato salad packed with typical Sicilian flavors: olives, capers, currants, and pine nuts.

SWORDFISH

PAILLARDS WITH ARUGULA AND TOMATOES

SERVES 6

One 1 ½-pound skinless swordfish steak, cut horizontally into 6 thin slices (about ¼ inch thick; see note below)

3½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 cups trimmed arugula, washed and spun dry

1 pound super-ripe cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

2 teaspoons black or brown mustard seeds (available in Indian markets, or see Sources, page 232)

Scant 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

PREHEAT A GAS GRILL or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

Brush the swordfish on both sides with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the swordfish paillards on the grill and cook for 1 minute, unmoved, then gently flip and cook for 15 seconds on the second side, or until just cooked through (watch carefully, the cooking goes very quickly). Transfer to a large platter.

In a medium bowl, gently toss the arugula with the cherry tomatoes and mustard seeds, then add the remaining 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil and the vinegar and gently toss to mix well. Season with salt and pepper.

Arrange the salad on top of the swordfish and serve immediately.

Simple, delicate, and colorful,