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By Root 220 0

this is one of those dishes defined by the quality of the ingredients. Be sure the tomatoes are really ripe and the sword-fish is really fresh. You can also make the vinaigrette with fresh lemon juice instead of red wine vinegar. Any good fishmonger will be happy to cut the fish into paillards (thin slices), but if you have to slice it yourself, put it in the freezer first for about 15 minutes to firm it slightly and make cutting it easier.

GRILLED WHOLE

BRANZINO

WITH SALSA VERDE

SERVES 6

Three 2-pound branzino, cleaned and scaled

1 large fennel bulb

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves

1 cup (8 ounces) pitted Gaeta olives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

SALSA VERDE

2 cups fresh Italian parsley leaves

½ cup fresh basil leaves

1 garlic clove

¼ cup fresh bread crumbs

¼ cup capers, drained

1 salt-packed anchovy, filleted, rinsed, and drained, or 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

RINSE THE FISH AND PAT DRY. Use kitchen shears to remove the top and bottom fins. Set aside.

Trim the fennel bulb, halve lengthwise, and cut out most of the core (reserve a few fronds to add to the stuffing if you like). Using a mandoline or other vegetable slicer, shave the fennel into thin slices. Transfer to a large bowl, add the thyme, oregano, olives, and salt and pepper to taste, and mix well.

Stuff each fish generously with one-third of the fennel mixture. The stuffing will almost be spilling out; secure the cavities with a toothpick or two if necessary. Place the fish in a shallow casserole or baking dish, cover, and refrigerate.

Put the parsley, basil, garlic, bread crumbs, capers, anchovies, and vinegar in a food processor and zap until the herbs are coarsely chopped. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil until a smooth sauce forms. Season with salt if it needs it, and set aside. (The sauce can be stored just like pesto, in a tightly sealed jar topped with a thin layer of extra-virgin olive oil, for several weeks in the refrigerator.)

Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

Oil the grill grate, using a clean rag dipped in oil or a basting brush. Brush the fish with the olive oil and place them gently on the hottest part of the grill. Cook, unmoved, for 4 minutes, then carefully lift them with tongs, turn 90 degrees, so you will get nice grill marks, and cook for 4 minutes. Gently turn the fish over and repeat the same procedure on the second side, cooking until the flesh is opaque throughout (check the flesh nearest the bone to make sure). Transfer to a platter and allow to rest for 5 minutes.

Show off the whole fish at the table, then fillet the fish and put one fillet and some stuffing on each plate. Serve with the salsa verde.

Italians rarely serve any sauce at all—other than good olive oil, maybe a squeeze of lemon—with fish, but a beautiful grilled whole branzino can more than stand up to salsa verde, the classic green herb sauce. The salsa takes it to a whole other level, but be sure to try the branzino both with and without, so that you really understand your fish.

SALMON IN CARTOCCIO

WITH ASPARAGUS, CITRUS, AND THYME

SERVES 6

2 oranges

2 lemons

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 salt-packed anchovies, filleted, rinsed, and drained, or 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

6 spears jumbo asparagus, tough bottoms snapped off, stalks cut on the diagonal into ¼-inch-thick slices, tips halved lengthwise

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Six 4- to 5-ounce wild salmon fillets

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

¾ cup dry white wine

USING A SHARP PARING KNIFE OR SERRATED KNIFE, cut off the top and bottom of each orange and lemon to expose the flesh. Stand each one upright on a work surface and slice off the skin and bitter white pith, working from top to bottom and following the natural curve of the fruit,