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The large-mouthed bass, sometimes called a black crappie, prevails in the central and southern states. Less lively than its small-mouthed relative, it usually weighs about 3 pounds but has been known to attain very impressive weights.

The rock bass, sometimes called red-eyed or goggle-eyed, is a common game fish in the Great Lakes region, Mississippi Valley, and in eastern and southern states. It is thick-bodied, meaty, and averages about 10 inches in length. It likes shadowy spots and is actually not much of a fighter.

BROILED BASS

Small whole bass or larger ones split can be broiled and served with lemon butter (page 31), tartar sauce (pages 35–36), or any of the favorite fish sauces. Follow the directions for broiling on pages 9–10).

PAN-FRIED BASS

Small bass may be pan-fried as you would crappies (see page 322).

BAKED BASS

Clean and wash the bass, place it on an oiled baking dish, dot with butter, and season with salt and pepper. Bake at 450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8). Baste the fish frequently during the cooking process.

Serve with parsley butter (page 33), lemon butter (page 31), or with your favorite fish sauce.

Bluegill Sunfish

Most states prohibit commercial fishing of the bluegill sunfish, reserving it for the benefit of sportsmen. It is a delightful pond fish, highly prolific, and has been artificially propagated over a wide area. The flesh is firm, flaky, and of good flavor. A bluegill rarely weighs over 1 pound, but it is game for its size and fairly amusing as a sport fish.

Occasionally you may hear anglers refer to the bluegill and to other sunfishes as “bream,” a name that is also applied sometimes to such unrelated saltwater fishes as ocean perch or rosefish, and to porgy or scup. At any rate, the bluegill sunfish and any freshwater fish called bream may be cooked by following the recipes for crappies (page 322).

Bowfin

The bowfin is a prehistoric holdover. It sometimes breathes air, a faculty it developed in the Devonian period when severe droughts made life tough for fish. In fact, it is claimed that when droughts occur in the South, live bowfins can go underground and breathe air.

The bowfin is practically never prepared fresh. It needs much careful attention and skilled cookery. Smoked bowfin is superb. It should be approached with a good appetite.

Buffalo Fish

There are different varieties of this fish in the Middle West — the common buffalo, sometimes called the redmouth and the bigmouth; the round or prairie buffalo, also called the rooter; and the small-mouthed buffalo.

This fish is less bony than the carp and has an excellent flavor. Many people prefer it to carp, feeling that the somewhat musty taste of the latter is unpleasant.

A great deal of smoked buffalo fish is available in the East and Middle West. It is more delicate than smoked carp and a delicious change in the smoked fish field.

You may prepare buffalo fish in the same way you prepare carp.

Burbot

The burbot is the one freshwater member of the cod family. It has a slight beard and fins that resemble those of the cusk. Burbot liver oil is one of the most valuable sources of vitamin A, and the fish itself is fine eating. It is found in northern waters.

Prepare burbot in any of the ways suggested for cod or haddock.

Carp

This fish has a splendid literary background. There are many references to it in fables and stories, and its long history includes an Asiatic origin followed by plantings in Europe and America. American carp have been known to weigh as much as 60 pounds, and I have seen even larger ones in Europe. I remember especially a magnificent carp that I saw fished out of a pond on an estate in France. After it had been cooked and wonderfully decorated, it was placed on a plank. It was so large that it took two maids, carrying it between them, to bring it to us.

Carp are sometimes transported to market in tanks. Some are sold