James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [104]
CARP FILLET, SPENCER METHOD
Mary Evelene Spencer, who was a government food expert many years ago, developed a form of fish cookery that has been known since as the Spencer Method. Any fillets may be cooked this way, but I think that it applies particularly well to the carp. The following recipe is for four people.
Cut 4 fillets of carp into serving portions. Fill a shallow pan with salted milk and a large flat plate with dry bread crumbs. Dip the fillets into the milk and then into the crumbs, being sure that the crumbs cover both sides of the fish. Lay the fillets on a well-buttered baking sheet and pour 3 tablespoons of melted butter or bacon fat on each one. Heat the oven to 550° and place the pan near the top of the oven. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the fillets to a hot platter and serve with quarters of lemon or tartar sauce (pages 35–36).
This method is intended to achieve a fine crust on the outside and tender moist fish inside. You’ll find it is amazingly good.
OVEN-BRAISED CARP FILLETS PROVENÇALE
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
Oil
4 carp fillets
Flour
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup chopped parsley
Dried thyme
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup red wine
Tomato sauce (about 1 cup)
18 to 20 ripe olives
Steamed rice
Place the onions on a well-oiled baking pan. Dip the fillets in flour and arrange them on the onions. Sprinkle with the garlic, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper. Add the wine, and then drizzle olive oil all over the fish. Top each fillet with 3 tablespoons of tomato sauce. Bake at 425° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8), basting often with the wine in the pan. Remove to a hot serving platter. Blend the sauce in the pan with 3 or 4 more tablespoons of tomato sauce and add the ripe olives. Pour the sauce around the fish and serve with steamed rice.
CARPE AU BLEU
The small fish are sometimes cooked like trout, in a vinegar and water bouillon. Serve them with melted butter, sauce gribiche (pages 36–37), or vinaigrette (page 36) and a boiled potato.
ALSATIAN CARP WITH SAUERKRAUT
4 pounds sauerkraut
4 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
4 cups beer
4 carp fillets
Flour
Butter or bacon fat
Grated Gruyère or Cheddar cheese
Sour cream
Buttered crumbs
Steam the sauerkraut mixed with the garlic, black pepper, and beer for 4 to 6 hours in a covered dish over low heat.
Flour the fillets and sauté them in butter or bacon fat according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10).
Arrange a layer of the sauerkraut in the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish, then add a layer of grated cheese, then a layer of the fish covered with sour cream; repeat these layers and top with a layer of the kraut. Add 2 cups of beer or liquid from the sauerkraut, sprinkle with grated cheese and buttered crumbs. Dot with butter and bake at 350° for 30 minutes.
BAKED CARP, HUNGARIAN STYLE
4-pound carp
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Paprika
2 large onions, thinly sliced
4 to 6 tablespoons fat
Oil
Sour cream
Clean and prepare the carp for baking. Season the inside with the salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of paprika.
Sauté the onions in fat until they are just tender but not colored. Spread them on the bottom of a well-oiled baking dish and place the carp on top. Brush the fish with oil, sprinkle heavily with paprika, cover with sour cream, and sprinkle again with paprika. Bake at 450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8).
Serve with buttered noodles mixed with poppy seeds and sprinkled with a little grated cheese.
BRAISED CARP MEXICAN
4-to-6-pound carp
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons chili powder
1/2 cup chicken broth