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Cook the onions and potatoes in the butter until the mixture is soft. Add the fish and cook over high heat until the hash begins to brown, stirring to spread the crispy portion. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

FISH PIE

Fish pie can be made by adding a little cream to the fish hash mixture and baking it in a crust.

STEAMED FISH (HALIBUT) PUDDING OR TIMBALE

Irma Rombauer was surely beloved by thousands — or probably millions — of young Americans, and her cookbook, Joy of Cooking, is now edited by her daughter.

This fish pudding was one of Irma Rombauer’s favorites as a child, and she has graciously passed it on to me for this book. It it a perfect way of using up leftover fish. This recipe is for 6 people. If you wish to serve 3, cut the ingredients in half and steam the pudding in a 1-pound coffee tin or a small mold.

2 cups flaked or ground halibut or other fish

3/4 cup bread crumbs

1/4 cup melted butter

3 eggs, separated

2 teaspoons lemon juice or 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Salt

Paprika

Combine the fish, crumbs, butter, egg yolks, and seasonings. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold them into the mixture. Pour into a well-buttered timbale mold or pudding tin and steam for 1 hour. Unmold onto a hot platter and serve with cream sauce flavored with Worcestershire, or a mustard or tomato sauce (page 24).

PICKLED FISH

Cold halibut, cod, tuna, striped bass, and swordfish may be pickled by covering them with a mild wine vinegar. Add 1 large thinly sliced onion, 12 to 14 peppercorns, and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dill weed. Cover and let stand in the refrigerator for 24 to 36 hours before serving. It may be served as is or combined with a green salad, a rice salad, or mayonnaise.

FISH AND COLESLAW SALAD

Shred a 2-pound cabbage. Mix with 1 cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon mustard, and 2/3 cup sour cream (if you want a sweet-sour sauce, add 1 tablespoon sugar). Let stand 30 minutes. Fold in 1 to 2 cups cooked, flaked cold fish, any variety or combination. Garnish with watercress or chopped parsley.

FISH CAKES

11/2 cups cooked, cold flaked fish, skin and bones removed

2 cups well-seasoned mashed potatoes

1 tablespoon grated onion

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Ground ginger

Mix together the fish, potatoes, and onion and add seasonings to taste. Form into fish cakes about 3 inches in diameter and 11/2 inches thick. Sauté in butter or bacon fat until golden brown.

Garnish with bacon slices or tomato sauce, if desired.

FLORENTINE BEAN SALAD

3 20-ounce cans cannelini beans, drained and washed

21/2 cups mixed, cooked fish or 2 7-ounce cans white meat tuna fish

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried basil

Olive oil

Vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Mix the beans and fish with the garlic, parsley, and basil. Add the olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. Mix well and chill several hours. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

ESCABECHE

This isn’t really a dish you can make with leftovers but, if you have some extra fresh or frozen fish fillets, salt them lightly on both sides and marinate in lemon and lime juice, barely to cover, for about an hour. Pour off the marinade and reserve. Dry the fish well, and dust very, very lightly with flour, a little more salt, and some pepper. Melt 3 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet. Sauté the fish very quickly on both sides, until heated through and delicately brown. Remove to a serving dish. Sprinkle with 2 to 3 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon paprika, 1 teaspoon dried cumin seed, 1 teaspoon oregano, 3 or 4 canned green chiles cut into strips, 1 large red Italian onion sliced paper-thin, and about 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Add about 1/2 cup olive oil and 1 to 2 tablespoons of the reserved juice. Taste and refrigerate, covered, for 24 hours, until the fish is imbued with the various flavors.

Remove the fish and garnish with shredded lettuce, stuffed olives,