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Saltwater Fish

Barracuda

Sometimes called a sea pike or brochet de mer, which it resembles, barracuda is eaten principally on the Pacific Coast and is seldom marketed elsewhere. Anglers respect it as a game fish. It has treacherous teeth, and there are occasional reports of its striking at bathers close to shore.

Those who have eaten barracuda — their number is not impressively large — regard it as a good dish. It is a fat fish and I think it is exceptionally fine when smoked. The food barracuda averages 12 to 15 pounds, but some of the species may weigh as much as 100 to 150 pounds.

In some parts of the country barracuda is considered poisonous. This is an old wives’ tale.

BROILED BARRACUDA

Use either steaks or fillets. Follow the directions for broiling (pages 9–10). Serve with mustard sauce (page 23), black butter (page 31), or parsley butter (page 33).

CHARCOAL-BROILED BARRACUDA

Barracuda is really best baked, for my taste, but I do think it is wonderful broiled over charcoal. In that case, follow this California method.

Use a small whole fish, clean it, and place it in an oiled hinged grill. Broil according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Baste it with soy, sesame, or peanut oil and whiskey (bourbon is best) or sherry — using equal parts of the oil and liquor. Add any seasonings you wish to the basting sauce. Sometimes you may like a few slivers of ginger or perhaps you would enjoy crushed garlic. Serve the sauce separately.

SAUTÉED BARRACUDA

Follow the basic rules for sautéing on page 10. Serve with sour cream sauce (page 38), mustard sauce with tarragon added (page 23), or a tomato-curry sauce (page 23).

BAKED BARRACUDA

The directions for baking salmon (page 179) or halibut (page 125) apply equally well to barracuda.

BAKED BARRACUDA CALIFORNIA

Select a small whole barracuda and clean it. Make a basting sauce as for charcoal-broiled barracuda (see recipe above). Place the fish in an oiled baking dish, pour the sauce over it, and bake at 425°–450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8). Baste frequently with the sauce during the cooking process. When the fish is about half done, sprinkle it liberally with sesame seeds. If you have a baking thermometer, cook the fish to 140° internal temperature. You will find it deliciously juicy.

BAKED BARRACUDA NIÇOISE

Olive oil

2 cloves garlic

1 medium onion

4 barracuda steaks

Flour

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Anchovy fillets

Tomatoes, pealed and sliced

Black olives

1 cup red wine

Chopped parsley

Fresh tarragon

Oil a baking dish well. Chop the garlic and onion and sprinkle on the bottom of the dish. Dip the steaks in flour and place them on top of the garlic and onion. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange anchovy fillets and sliced tomatoes over the top and sprinkle with black olives. Add red wine and bake at 425°–450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8), basting about three times during the process.

Sprinkle wtih chopped parsley and a little fresh tarragon, if available. Serve with a mound of buttered rice.

BRAISED BARRACUDA SANTA BARBARA

6 tablespoons butter

4 barracuda steaks

Flour

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 bay leaf

3 cloves

2 slices onion

Milk

Gruyère cheese, grated

Paprika

Melt the butter in a baking dish or casserole. Dust the steaks with flour and brown them in the butter. Salt and pepper them to taste, add the bay leaf, cloves, onion slices, and enough milk to cover three-quarters of the thickness of the fish. Sprinkle with grated cheese and paprika. Bake at 425°–450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8).

BARRACUDA ROE

11/2 pounds barracuda roe

Court bouillon (page 18)

1/4 cup butter

1 clove garlic

4 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup white wine

1 cup cream

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Rosemary

Buttered crumbs

Poach the roe for 10 minutes in court bouillon. Melt the butter, add the garlic, and cook it for 2 minutes. Remove the garlic and