James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [68]
MOLDED SALMON LOAF
4 salmon steaks
White wine court bouillon (pages 19–20) (2 cups clarified)
1 egg white and shell
1 envelope gelatin
12 stuffed olives
3 hard-cooked eggs
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 cucumber, seeded and cubed
2 pimientos cut in strips
Mayonnaise
Greens
Cook the salmon steaks in court bouillon according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). Cool them and cut them into small cubes. Reduce the bouillon to 2 cups, clarify it with the egg white and shell (page 18), and strain it through a napkin. Dissolve the gelatin in 1/4 cup of cold water or broth and combine it with the hot bouillon. Let it cool until it starts to set.
Pour a thin layer of the gelatin mixture into a bread pan or small mold and put it in the refrigerator to solidify. Arrange sliced olives, halved hard-cooked eggs, and onion rings on the bottom of the mold. Toss the salmon cubes with the cubed cucumber, the pimiento, and more onion rings and arrange this mixture in the mold. Cover with the remaining gelatin and chill in the refrigerator. Unmold on a bed of greens and serve with either a mayonnaise or a sauce verte (page 34).
SALMON STEAKS PARISIENNE
4 thick salmon steaks (about 2 inches, center cuts)
White wine court bouillon (pages 19–20) (31/2 cups clarified)
1 egg white and shell
2 envelopes gelatin
Sauce verte (page 34)
Asparagus tips
Hard-cooked eggs
Poach the salmon in the court bouillon according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). Remove to cool. Cook the bouillon down to about 4 cups. Clarify it with the egg white and shell (page 18) and strain through a napkin. Dissolve the gelatin in 1/2 cup of cold water or bouillon and add the rest of the broth. Let it cool until almost set.
Remove the skin from the salmon steaks. When the jelly is almost set, combine 1 cup of it with 11/2 cups of sauce verte. Give the salmon steaks a liberal coating of this mixture. Spread the jellied bouillon on the bottom of a rather deep platter, arrange the salmon on top of this, and decorate with asparagus tips and hard-cooked eggs. Serve with additional sauce verte.
Cold Canned Salmon
Canned salmon comes in various grades. Some very choice cuts are put up in cans, but there are also some very inferior grades. Because of the requirements of federal law, you can usually judge the quality from the labels. Good grades of salmon may be served in one piece, chilled, with a mayonnaise and cucumber salad. Garnish it any way you choose. Be sure to remove the skin, which is often unsightly.
Here are several salad recipes suitable for either canned or freshly cooked salmon.
SALMON MAYONNAISE
2 cups cold, flaked salmon
Mixed greens
Mayonnaise
Cucumber or cooked peas in vinaigrette sauce (page 36)
Arrange the salmon on a bed of greens. Top with mayonnaise and decorate with sliced cucumbers or cold cooked peas that have marinated in a vinaigrette sauce. Serve with additional mayonnaise.
SALMON CELERY SALAD
2 cups cold, flaked salmon
1 cup finely diced celery
Mayonnaise
Greens
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Hard-cooked eggs
Combine the salmon and celery and bind them with mayonnaise. Heap the mixture on a bed of greens, sprinkle liberally with chopped parsley, and decorate with sliced or quartered hard-cooked eggs.
SALMON SALAD BOATS
6 cucumbers
Greens
11/2 cup cold flaked salmon
1/2 cup finely diced celery
1 cup cooked peas
1/2 cup chopped green onion
2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped
Mayonnaise
Halve the cucumbers the long way, remove the seeds, and make the cucumbers into boats. Arrange them on beds of greens. Combine all the other ingredients, binding them together with mayonnaise; fill the cucumbers with this mixture.
VARIATION