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James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [69]

By Root 1047 0

Use tomatoes or avocado halves for the boats.


Cold Dishes with Smoked Salmon


SMOKED SALMON CORNUCOPIAS


Roll perfect slices of smoked salmon into small cornucopias and secure them with toothpicks. Fill them with a mixture of cream cheese combined with freshly grated horseradish. Serve as an hors d’oeuvre.


CANAPÉ DANOIS


This is merely a round or square of fried toast with a layer of smoked salmon topped with a thin slice of ham and decorated with olives. Serve it as a first course with a little horseradish sauce (horseradish mixed with sour cream).


SMOKED SALMON APPETIZERS


The finest quality of smoked salmon has practically no salt content and has a very delicate flavor. It is expensive, but worth it. Serve thin — very thin — shavings of this fish delicacy, and allow several to each portion. The usual and certainly the best accompaniments are freshly ground black pepper, capers, and thin slices of Spanish or red Italian onion in an olive oil and lemon dressing. Pumpernickel or rye bread and butter sandwiches go with this.


SMOKED SALMON SANDWICHES


These may be used for luncheon or supper sandwiches or cut into small bits to serve with cocktails. Smoked salmon calls for rye or pumpernickel or a heavy whole wheat bread. It also needs plenty of butter — preferably unsalted. Try these combinations:


1. Smoked salmon, coarse black pepper.

2. Smoked salmon, cream cheese, sliced onion.

3. Smoked salmon, onion, ham.

4. Smoked salmon, cream cheese, sliced egg, sliced onion.


SMOKED SALMON QUICHE


PASTRY


13/4 cups flour

8 tablespoons butter

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons ice water

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lemon juice


FILLING


8 ounces cream cheese

5 eggs, slightly beaten

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon grated lemon rind

1/2 cup minced onion

Butter

1/4 pound smoked salmon


To make pastry: Work the flour and butter together until it forms small granules. Then add the egg yolk, salt, and lemon juice. With tightly cupped hands, work the dough into a mass, pulling in any crumbs in the bottom of the bowl. Place on a lightly floured board, break off some small pieces — about 2 to 3 tablespoons each — and, with the heel of your hand, push each one across the board to flatten it. With the aid of a baker’s scraper or spatula, pull them together. Continue this process, called the fraisage, until all the dough has been flattened, then form into a ball and wrap in wax paper or foil and chill well before using.

To make pastry in a food processor: Place the flour, salt, and butter in the beaker. Process for 10 seconds. Add the lemon juice and egg yolk and process, pouring in enough water to form a ball on the top of the blades. Remove pastry and chill.

Roll out the pastry and line a 9-inch pie pan. Cover the inside of the shell with foil, weight down with rice or beans, and bake in a 425° oven for 12 minutes; remove beans and foil and bake a few minutes longer, to bake the center. Brush the bottom of the shell with beaten egg and put in the oven for a minute or two to set the glaze.

Filling. Soften the cream cheese and mix with slightly beaten eggs and heavy cream. Add the mustard, salt, pepper, cayenne, and lemon rind. Sauté the onions in a little butter until soft. Chop the smoked salmon into coarse pieces, approximately 1/4-to-1/2-inch squares, and add to the softened onion, stirring until the salmon just barely warms through. Drain the butter from the onion and salmon mixture into the cream mixture and mix thoroughly. Arrange the onion and salmon in the pastry shell. Pour the cream mixture over and bake in a 350° oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the quiche tests done when a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.


Other Salmon Dishes


SALT SALMON AND SALMON BELLY


Both these preserved parts of salmon, as well as salmon tips, are very salty. Soak them for several hours or overnight before cooking. They are all primarily breakfast or luncheon dishes. Steam or poach them according

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