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By Root 1048 0

the restrained transparency of the few oysters. Sometimes there are a few raw palourdes (carpet-shells) as well, or praires which are the local clams. Lemon quarters and a generous bowl of lemon-flavoured mayonnaise are part of the dish. In France, they will usually provide you with little forks for the oyster (then you drink the juice from the shell), but I have the feeling this is frowned on in superior English circles. Not being a nimble eater myself, I think that forks are a good idea, unless you have the good luck to be eating the oysters on a quayside in the sun and it doesn’t matter if you get in a mess.

If you want to cook the oysters, put them on a bed of coarse sea salt, pressing them down, or on a flat disc of bread with holes cut into it in which the shells can rest. I prefer the latter system, as any juices which spill over in preparation and cooking will be soaked up in a most edible way, and will not be wasted.

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK

I think this is a savoury which is much better eaten at the beginning of a meal. Quite apart from the work required at the wrong end of a dinner, I find that savouries spoil the sequence of wines that you may be serving.

Although this savoury came from France in the mid-nineteenth century, it was soon a top English speciality. Allow three large oysters for each person. Wrap each one, after seasoning it with a drop of anchovy essence, 2–3 drops of lemon juice and a tiny pinch of cayenne, in a thin strip of streaky bacon. Impale them on to wooden cocktail sticks, three rolls per stick. Have ready a piece of bread fried in butter for each stick. Fry the rolls in clarified butter*, or brush them with butter and grill them under a high heat, then put on the bread. The cooking should be brief and the angels eaten promptly.

Sheila Hutchins points out that mussels or pieces of scallop can be used instead of oysters.

CHICKEN AND OYSTER GUMBO

The gumbo stews of the southern states of America are often given their defining character by okra. The difference between this recipe and the Mediterranean type of stew is the inclusion of peppers and chilli or cayenne.

The stew is equally good made with mussels.

Serves 6

250 g (8 oz) gammon rasher, cubed

1 farm chicken, jointed

125 g (4 oz) chopped onion

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 red pepper, chopped, minus seeds or 1 dried chilli chopped, with seeds

375 g (12 oz) okra, trimmed, sliced

lard and any fat from the chicken above

1 tablespoon plain flour

250 g (8 oz) chopped tomato

1 tablespoon tomato concentrate

chicken stock or water

bouquet garni

salt, pepper, cayenne or Tabasco sauce

1–2 dozen oysters

parsley

Brown the gammon and chicken, onion, garlic, red pepper or chilli and okra in the lard and chicken fat. You will have to do this in batches, transferring each item as it colours to a large pot and adding more lard as necessary; start with the meat and colour it over a sharpish heat, then lower the temperature for the vegetables, so that they soften and do not become too brown. When the last batch is ready, stir in the flour, cook for a couple of minutes, then add the tomato, concentrate and enough stock or water to make a slightly thickened sauce. Tip this over the contents in the large pot, adding extra liquid if need be, barely to cover the meat and vegetables. Put in the bouquet and seasoning (if you use chilli rather than red peppers, go lightly with the cayenne or Tabasco). Simmer, with the pot covered, until the chicken is tender – about one hour or longer. Meanwhile open the oysters, being careful to save all their juice. Ten minutes before serving the gumbo, mix in the oysters and their liquor to heat through. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove the bouquet, and add a good chopping of parsley. Served with boiled rice.

HUÎTRES FARCIES GRILLÉES

This is my favourite way of cooking oysters (it also happens to be my favourite way of cooking mussels – and clams). No other recipe can equal it for piquancy and delight. Garlic butter goes beautifully