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ELIZABETH DAVID’S PRAWN PASTE

I first came across this recipe in Elizabeth David’s booklet, Dried Herbs, Aromatics and Condiments, and have used it many times. If you are in a hurry, put all the ingredients into a liquidizer and blend at top speed; it may be necessary to add a little more olive oil. The combination of prawn and basil is delightful.

Serves 3–4

250 g (8 oz) cooked, peeled prawns

4–6 teaspoons olive oil

cayenne pepper, dried basil

juice of 1 lime or ½ lemon

1 saltspoon crushed coriander or cumin seed (optional)

‘Mash or pound the prawns to a paste. Very gradually add the olive oil. Season with cayenne pepper and about half a teaspoonful of dried basil warmed in the oven and finely crumbled. Add the strained juice of half a lemon or of a whole fresh lime (when available, the lime is much the better choice). When the mixture is smooth, and is seasoned to your satisfaction – salt may or may not be necessary, that depends how much has already been cooked with the prawns – pack it into a little jar or terrine. Cover and store in the refrigerator. Serve chilled, with hot thin toast. Do not attempt to store for more than a couple of days.’

If you are using freshly boiled prawns in the shell, allow approximately 1 litre (1¾ pt) gross measure. The shells and heads will make the basis of a good shellfish soup (see p. 288).

PRAWN SAUCE

A beautiful sauce which goes with a variety of white fish – cod, sole, turbot, brill, halibut, hake, monkfish, John Dory, bream and porgies – and enhances the pleasure of lobster, scallops and octopus.

250 g (8 oz) prawns in their shells

60 g (2 oz) butter

1 heaped tablespoon plain flour

up to 1 tablespoon tomato concentrate

1 dessertspoon wine vinegar

1 lump sugar

90 ml (3 fl oz) double cream

150 ml (5 fl oz) Marsala

salt, pepper

walnut-sized lump of butter

Shell the prawns and set the flesh on one side. Then put the shells only into a pan, and cover with 450 ml (15 fl oz) water. Simmer for about 20 minutes, then liquidize. Pour the resulting gritty mixture through a fine sieve, and keep warm.

Melt the butter in a clean pan, stir in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the sieved shell liquid gradually, until the sauce is smooth. After 10 minutes’ simmering, or a little more, flavour with tomato concentrate. Add vinegar and sugar. Cook for another 5 minutes before stirring in the cream, then the Marsala, little by little, to taste. Correct the seasoning before putting in the prawns to heat through. Remove from the heat, stir in the final nut of butter and serve immediately.

To serve, pour some of the sauce over the poached, or lightly-fried fish, and hand round the rest in a sauceboat. Any sauce left over can be mixed with a spoonful or so of mayonnaise, and used as a dressing for cold fish.

SHRIMP SAUCE

To a velouté sauce* add at the last moment a 125 g (4 oz) carton of potted shrimps. The spiced butter gives an excellent flavour to the sauce. (Potted shrimps can be added to a béchamel sauce* in the same way.)

ARTICHOKE AND SHRIMP SALAD (Fonds d’artichauts Ninette)

This is a fine way to start a special meal – the flavour of shellfish harmonizes beautifully with artichoke. Mayonnaise adds zest and richness. Do not be tempted to use canned artichokes; they have no flavour and lack consistency.

Serves 6

7 cooked artichoke bottoms

cooked purée scraped from the leaves

250 ml (8 fl oz) mayonnaise

mustard

fresh parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, chopped

200 g (7 oz) shelled shrimps or prawns

6 prawns in their shells (optional)

Chop then mash one of the artichoke bottoms with the purée from the leaves. Mix with the mayonnaise and add a little mustard, then the chopped herbs. Fold in the shrimps or prawns. Pile this mixture up on the artichoke bottoms remaining and put a prawn in its shell on top of each. Serve chilled on a bed of lettuce.

If the artichoke bottoms are on the small side, and there is too much shrimp