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shells for making the stock). Melt the onion in butter until soft. Stir in the curry powder and flour and moisten with the strained stock and the cream. Reduce to a thick sauce and season to taste. Reheat the prawns in the sauce for a few seconds, just before serving.

MANGO PRAWNS

‘I was a long way from the sea when I heard about this one,’ wrote Alan Davidson in the Seafood of South-East Asia, ‘precisely, at Ban Houei Sai, the enchanting village which stands on soil studded with sapphires in the Golden Triangle area of Laos. I was on the trail of Pangasianodon gigas, the giant catfish of the Mekong. Peter Law, a narcotics expert from Hong Kong, was following other trails of his own; but he is also a gastronome and was moved by some turn in the conversation to impart this recipe to me… may be used for crab instead of prawns. Whichever you use, the amount of crustacean and the amount of mango should be about equal.’

Use the large cooked Mediterranean prawns that a number of fishmongers now sell, otherwise go for crab.

Serves 4

8 prawns

4 mangos

DRESSING

300 ml (10 fl oz) mayonnaise or double cream

2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish

a squeeze of lemon or lime juice

1 teaspoonful sugar

a little freshly ground pepper

a little single cream or creamy milk to thin dressing, if necessary

Peel the prawns, and cut up into chunks. Prepare the mangos so that you are left with the empty skins and the flesh cubed.

Mix prawns and mango. Mix the dressing ingredients, then stir it gradually into the prawn and mango. Stop when the mixture is nicely bound and not in the least liquid. Divide between the empty mango skins, and arrange on a dish. Garnish with strips of sweet red or green pepper and mint leaves. Serve chilled.

MELON AND PRAWN VINAIGRETTE

This is a very good dish to take on a picnic. Carry the salad in a plastic container and spoon it into the melon shells when you are settled in your picnic spot.

Serves 6

3 small Charentais melons

2 kiwi fruit

6 small tomatoes, peeled

300 g (10 oz) prawns, cooked

1 tablespoon chopped dill

2 tablespoons hazelnut oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

salt, freshly ground black pepper

sprigs of dill

Cut the melons in half and discard the seeds. Scoop the flesh into balls, using a melon bailer, and wrap the melon shells in plastic wrap.

Peel the kiwi fruit, cut in half and slice. Cut each tomato into eight wedges, discarding the seeds, and place in a plastic container with the melon balls, kiwi fruit, prawns and chopped dill. Mix the oil, lemon juice and seasoning together in ajar.

Just before serving, tip off any juices that have collected from the melon mixture. Shake the dressing well to mix and pour over the melon, kiwi fruit and prawns. Spoon into the melon shells and garnish with the sprigs of dill.

PRAWNS AND MUSSELS IN A CREAM SAUCE

Serves 6

1 onion, chopped

300 ml (10 fl oz) dry white wine

bouquet garni

about 2 kg (4 lb) mussels

2 shallots, chopped

45 g (1½ oz) butter

30 g (1 oz) plain flour

90–125 ml (3–4 fl oz) double cream

salt, pepper, parsley

375 g (12 oz) prawns

Put the onion, wine and bouquet into a pan, and bring to the boil. Add the mussels and leave them to open in the usual way (p. 239). Discard the shells and strain the liquor. Cook the shallots gently in butter until soft. Stir in the flour, moisten with mussel liquor and cream, and reduce to a good thick consistency. Season to taste. Meanwhile, shell the prawns. Reheat the prawns and mussels for a few seconds in the sauce just before serving.

PRAWNS IN TOMATO AND VERMOUTH

This recipe comes from Home Book of Greek Cookery by Joyce M. Stubbs.

Serves 4

750 g (1½ lb) prawns

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

60 g (2 oz) butter

250 g (8 oz) peeled, chopped tomato

1 sprig rosemary or sweet basil

good pinch of cinnamon

salt, pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

60–90 ml (2–3 fl oz) vermouth

60–90 ml (2–3