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By Root 964 0

of the cure over the base. Put in one piece of filleted salmon, skin side down. Sprinkle most of the remaining cure over it, lay the sprigs of fresh dill across and put on the second fillet, skin side up, and with the thick side over the thin side of the fillet below. Sprinkle the rest of the cure over the top. Lay on a piece of foil, then a heavy plate and leave for at least 12 hours, turning the fillet sandwich over once at least. The gravadlax will be good for at least a week, but it will begin to get too salty. It is best eaten within 5 or 6 days, or else drained, wrapped in cling film and put into the freezer.

In any case, gravadlax should be chilled until very firm before slicing, otherwise it can be lumpy and unappetizing. Cut it down in fairly thick slices, or slice it thinly on the diagonal or even parallel to the skin, like smoked salmon.

It can be heated through – see the first recipe following. Usually, though, it is served cold or lightly chilled, with strips of the skin dry-fried to a nicely browned crispness. It can make a course on its own, with rye or wholemeal bread or potatoes, or one dish among many on a smörgasbord. The sauce that accompanies it is flavoured with dill, sugar and mustard. I give the Swedish quantities, but there is no harm done in reducing the sugar:

2 level tablespoons Swedish, German or Dijon mustard

2 level teaspoons sugar

1 egg yolk (optional)

150 ml (5 fl oz) sunflower or groundnut oil

1 generous teaspoon or more chopped dill weed

salt, pepper

Mix mustard and sugar with the egg yolk if used. Gradually beat in the oil as if you were making a mayonnaise. Fold in the dill gradually to taste and season.

GRAVADLAX EN PAPILLOTE

This recipe is based on an idea of Frances Bissell’s for cooking salmon with hot potato salad en papillote. With gravadlax, it is extra good.

per person:

2 teaspoons butter

½ teaspoon Swedish, German or Dijon mustard

2–3 small new potatoes, cooked, diced

1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot

¼ teaspoon chopped fresh dill or pinch of dried dill weed

125 g (4 oz) thinly sliced gravadlax

1 tablespoon fish stock*

Preheat the over to gas 5, 190°C (375°F). Cut a large heart from a sheet of baking parchment or foil. Melt the butter, mix with mustard and brush it over the heart. To one side of centre, make a bed of potato mixed with shallot and dill. Lay the salmon on top, sprinkle with stock and fold the heart over, twisting the edge to make a sealed package. Put on to a baking sheet and give it 10 minutes in the oven. Slide on to a hot plate to serve.

KULEBIAKA OR SALMON PIE

Fish pie is one of the great dishes of institutional catering. Even in middle age, I find it impossible to forget its gluey texture – and the smell, the revolting smell which hung, as insistently as the smell of Phallus impudicus in an autumn wood, over Friday morning lessons.

So at first I hesitated to try recipes for Kulebiaka (especially some of the more majestic ones containing viziga, which is the dried spinal cord of sturgeons). Then the possibilities of the ingredients conquered prejudice. I found that in this version of the famous Russian fish pie, they blended to a flavour which was both rich and fresh.

Serves 6

flaky pastry or brioche dough, made with 500 g (1 lb) plain flour

750 g (1½ lb) filleted salmon or turbot or eel

250 g (8 oz) butter, unsalted

250 g (8 oz) chopped shallot or mild onion

250 g (8 oz) mushrooms, coarsely chopped

juice of 1 lemon

175 g (6 oz) rice

2 teaspoons dried dill weed or 2 tablespoons fresh dill

4 tablespoons chopped parsley

salt, pepper, nutmeg

3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced

egg yolk or cream or top of the milk, for glazing

Make the pastry or dough. While it is chilling, or rising, prepare the filling. Cut the fish into thin slices. Fry briefly until stiff in 4 tablespoons of the butter; the fish should not be cooked through. Melt half the chopped shallot or onion in another 4 tablespoons of butter, without browning them.