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By Root 937 0

and leaves one in complete control. I should also say that it is now my preferred way of cooking farm salmon for eating cold later on: the svelte silver appearance of a whole poached fish is lost, and perhaps it should be kept only for the finest wild salmon, but the flavour and consistency is much improved.

The presentation can be less cucumbered, less finicky, to emphasize the difference.

Serves 6

1½–2 kg (3–4 lb) salmon or salmon trout

salt, pepper

lemon juice (optional, see recipe)

oil

SAUCE

olive oil vinaigrette*

plenty of chopped parsley and basil or chervil or tarragon

finely chopped red onion or shallot

capers

anchovies

olives

Scale the fish, cut off the head and tail. Clean out the cavity without slitting the belly, using salt to rub away stubborn traces of blood. Cut away the fins and slit down the back, keeping closely to the bone, until the salmon lies flat in a butterfly-shaped wedge. Cut away the bone. Season the fish all over on the cut side, and – if you like – sprinkle it with lemon juice or other form of marinade. Leave for 30 minutes, longer if you like.

Switch on the grill to maximum and make sure it is very hot. Cover the rack of the grill pan with foil, making a nest for the fish. Brush it over with oil. Put the salmon on to the foil, cut side down, skin up. Slide it under the grill and leave for 4 minutes. The skin should be nicely browned and blistered. Turn the salmon over on to a warmed serving dish of a kind that can stand up to heat. Remove the foil from the rack and put the dish on top. Slide it under the grill, switch off the grill and leave the salmon to complete its cooking in the declining heat. It will lose its transparent look and turn milky; investigate with the point of a knife to see how much longer is required for the salmon to become firm all through. It should lose its rawness, but never gain that dry chalky pink look of overdone salmon.

Serve on very hot plates with a vinaigrette sauce that has been embellished by herbs, onion or shallot, and chopped pickles to taste. In the season, asparagus and hollandaise* or mayonnaise* are good accompaniments to the salmon, whether it is hot, warm or cold. Samphire makes another good companion, or new potatoes and laverbread heated up with orange juice and a squeeze of lemon. Since you are dealing with a fish that becomes more and more buyable, and less exquisite sometimes in the process, try experimenting a little: mild purées of sweet red or yellow pepper, or of Jerusalem artichokes with a light chopping of toasted hazelnuts. A redcurrant sauce, or cranberries, or even plums to give a sharp contrast.

SALMON HEAD SOUP

The heads of large fish make the cheapest of fine soups, with the bonus of extra sweet pickings from the cheeks and under the jaw for the final garnishing. This is my basic recipe, since all the other ingredients are usually to hand. If I happen to be out of white wine, I use dry white vermouth or dry sherry, or a fine vinegar with a little sugar. If there is a head of fennel, that might go into the pot instead of carrot. If the rest of the meal is on the frugal side, cream or yoghurt or fromage frais or a lump of unsalted butter will make the soup a little richer.

Serves 4

1 salmon head

500 g (1 lb) bones from filleting flounders and white fish

3 tablespoons pudding rice, tied loosely into a muslin bag

1 onion, quartered

1 medium carrot, sliced

1 large tomato, cut up

2 cloves garlic

bouquet garni

250 ml (8 fl oz) dry white wine

salt, pepper, sugar

sprigs of chervil or sorrel leaves, as garnish

Put the salmon head and bones into a large pan. Suspend the bag of rice from the pan handle so that it lies well down. Put in the vegetables, garlic and bouquet with the wine and enough water to cover all the ingredients comfortably. Bring the pan to the boil, then adjust the heat to keep the liquid simmering for 45 minutes. When the head is cooked, remove it and extract the nice pink bits of salmon. Set these