Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [170]
SCALLOPS WITH WHITE WINE AND JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
I don’t know whether it was Margaret Costa who first brought Jerusalem artichokes and scallops together in one of her articles for the Sunday Times in the 1960s, but that was the first time I had ever come across the idea. She made a soup from the artichokes with some potato and chicken stock, onion softened in butter, then finished it with a few scallops cut into dice and poached in milk, some egg yolks and cream, and a scatter of parsley and the corals.
About twenty years later, in 1985, I chose scallops and artichokes from Joyce Molyneux’s menu at the Carved Angel in Dartmouth. This is her recipe. I have tried other, more elaborate, but hers is a winner.
Serves 6
12 large scallops
about 500 g (1 lb) Jerusalem artichokes
90 g (3 oz) butter
6 tablespoons dry white wine
salt, pepper
chopped parsley
lemon juice
Remove the corals carefully, discard the tough white part and slice the scallops across into 24 discs. Peel, trim and cut up enough artichokes to give you a good 250 g (8–9 oz) matchstick strips – or use a mandolin if you have managed to get a good smooth variety of artichoke. Keep the trimmings for soup or stock.
Cook the artichokes gently in butter. When almost tender, season and add the scallop discs and white wine. Cook for a minute, then turn the scallop discs and add the corals. Leave a further minute or two, but avoid overcooking.
Scoop out all the pieces on to six hot plates, or a serving dish. Reduce the liquid if necessary by fast boiling. Check the seasoning, and add parsley and lemon to taste. Pour over scallops and serve immediately.
NOTE Joyce Molyneux also uses this recipe for lamb neck fillets. Sear them first, then add artichoke sticks and butter, then wine.
SCARISTA SCALLOPS IN OATMEAL
In Harris – this recipe comes from Alison Johnson who with her husband runs a hotel on the shore, Scarista House – scallops are always called clams. Most confusing. ‘The biggest and best are got by diving, and these select shellfish cost half as much again as the dredged catch. Clam-divers are invested with high earning and an air of romance – till something goes wrong. It is a physically taxing and very risky career. We always try to buy from divers. Not only are their scallops finer, smelling of the sea rather than bilge water, but they do no harm to the sea-bed. A dredge claws the bottom like a giant harrow tearing out every scallop, large and tiny, whole and broken, and devastating the entire plant and animal community of the sea-bed. Regeneration takes years, if indeed it ever happens.’
When I walked into the kitchen of Scarista House, to meet Alison Johnson for the first time, on the draining board was a vast pile of these magnificent scallops, still in their shells, just delivered and waiting to be opened.
Serves 6
18–24 large plump scallops, cleaned
fine oatmeal
up to 125g (4 oz) butter, preferably clarified*
shredded heart of 1 lettuce
1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges
Set 6 deep scallop shells or small shallow pots of a similar size to warm in a baking sheet in the oven.
Slice the white part of the scallops across into two or three discs according to thickness. Separate the corals, cut off the dark end but leave them whole otherwise. Toss them all in a shallow wide bowl of oatmeal to coat them.
Heat a quarter of the butter in a heavy non-stick pan. Cook the white part of the scallops on both sides, until they are just cooked, 2-3 minutes. Go carefully, adding extra butter as required. Finally, cook the corals.
Divide the lettuce between the shells or pots. Put scallops and corals on top, with a wedge of lemon.
SEVICHE, CEVICHE OR CEBICHE
However you choose to spell the word, it should be pronounced se-veech-ee. The best place to eat it is Peru, according to fortunate travellers, but you will also find it elsewhere in Latin America. It is one of the most delicious ways of eating fish,