Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [183]
The secret of the sole’s flavour is, it appears, no more than an accident of chemistry. ‘The palatability of a fish,’ explains J. R. Norman in A History of Fishes, ‘is due to the presence of some peculiar chemical substance in the muscles which gives it its characteristic flavour… In the Plaice, as in most other fishes, the chemical substance is present in the flesh when the fish is alive, but unless it is eaten soon after capture this soon fades away and the flesh becomes comparatively tasteless. In the Sole, on the other hand, the characteristic flavour is only developed two or three days after death in consequence of the formation of a chemical substance by the process of decomposition; thus it forms a tasty dish even when brought long distances.’
What a shame that this accident should not have happened to the superabundant plaice (Pleuronectes platessa). In Europe every year between 100 and 120 thousand tons of plaice are landed, over four times the weight of sole, and more than all the other flatfish put together.
For the practical cook, flatfish fall into two different groups, small (sole, plaice, dabs) and enormous (halibut and turbot). Recipes therefore designated for sole in this chapter can also be used for dabs and plaice. I have to say, however, that for the lover of good things, the groups given above are immaterial. There are only two flatfish – the sole and the turbot. They shine out among all the fish of the sea. Whilst plaice can be cooked in the manner of sole (and brill in the manner of turbot), they won’t taste the same. Some restaurateurs substitute weever for sole, so it is worth enquiring about sole dishes, see p. 491. Which is not to say that they won’t be enjoyable and worth eating, especially if the sauces are good.
Here are some of those other flatfish which may be cooked in the style of the true sole (Solea solea) – but need more culinary attentions:
THE DAB This is called a limande in French, and has more right to the name, seeing that it is Limanda limanda in scientific terminology (from the Latin lima, a file, on account of its rough skin).
THE FLOUNDER OR FLUKE This fish has a poor reputation, and is not particularly good to eat, though it hardly deserves one description which compares it to wet flannel. I suppose one must here specify European flounder because in America ‘flounder’ includes a number of flatfish that can be good eating when they are freshly caught. The names vary in different parts of the US, but the most common varieties are black back (winter) flounder, summer flounder (fluke), dab (yellowtail), gray sole and lemon sole.
LEMON SOLE This has the delightful Latin name of Microstomus kitt, and a decidedly yellowish-brown appearance. Again, it is not a true sole. Other names are merry or Mary Sole, and sweet fluke. The French name is sole-limande, which is thoroughly confusing because the French name for the dab is so similar.
MEGRIM, WHIFF, SAIL-FLUKE, OR WEST COAST SOLE This has a thinner, translucent appearance, and the name of Lepidorhombus whiffiagonis – there’s invention for you – and cardine in French.
TORBAY SOLE OR WITCH A beautiful pinkish-purple marble-skinned creature, not unlike the sole in its blunted shape. You can be caught out both by the name and appearance of this fish, if you are not too familiar with the true sole. The French name is plie grise.
The average weight of a sole is about 375 g (12 oz). Some are larger, some can be tiny. In France we buy very cheaply minute creatures, 7–10 cm (3–4 inches) long, called séteaux. They are a true sole and quite good eating for this reason, in spite