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6 tablespoons grated Gruyère cheese

Choose a shallow earthenware or gratin dish large enough to take the open whiting in a single layer. You will also need a heat-diffusing mat.

Season the whiting with salt, pepper and a little cayenne. Heat the butter in the dish and, when it melts, stir in the onion, spreading it out to cover the base of the dish. Cook over a low heat until it is tender. Lay the whiting on top, skin side down. Raise the heat to moderate, pour in the cider and sprinkle the tops of the fish with cheese.

When the cider comes just to boiling point, complete the cooking briefly either under a preheated grill or on the top shelf of the oven, preheated to gas 7, 220 °C (425 °F). Check after 3 minutes, and do not overcook.

MERLANS À LA DIEPPOISE

Whiting with mussels and mushrooms, in a white wine sauce.

Serves 6

6 filleted whiting

salt, pepper

1 kg (2 lb) mussels, cleaned

375 g (12 oz) button mushrooms, left whole

lemon juice

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

300 ml (10 fl oz) dry white wine or half wine, half fish stock

2 teaspoons plain flour (optional)

Season the fillets and place them in a single layer, head to tail, in a flameproof pan, skin side down.

Open the mussels in the usual way (p. 239), discard the shells and strain the liquor into a basin. Cook the mushrooms, with a little lemon juice to keep them white, in 4 tablespoons of butter: if they are on the large side – small buttons are not always easy to buy – quarter them. Strain off their juice into the mussel liquor, and add the wine. Keep mussels and mushrooms warm.

Pour the liquor over the fish. Bring to simmering point on top of the stove and cook until just done. Remove the whiting to a warm serving dish and surround them with the mussels and mushrooms. Keep warm while you finish the sauce.

Strain the cooking juices into a clean pan. Taste and reduce them to improve the strength of flavour. Mash the flour with the remaining tablespoons of butter, if you like – this was the original style – and use to thicken the sauce, adding it in little bits gradually (beurre manié technique). If you are one of today’s farinophobes, you may prefer to reduce the liquid to a more robust strength and beat in the last of the butter (monter au beurre technique).

MERLANS À LA VERDURETTE

The title of this recipe, adapted from one given by Madame Prunier, might be translated as ‘Whiting with a little greenery’. It is for wise and knowing people who collect woodland mushrooms, or for the lucky ones who can buy them. The quantity of mushrooms required is inevitably vague since, with ceps in particular, the damaged parts are difficult to gauge until you are back at home cleaning them. Girolles lose a lot of moisture in the cooking, although again this will vary with the season. Aim to end up with 500 g (1 lb) of cookable mushrooms, if you can, although you can get away fairly successfully with 375 g (12 oz) – a consideration, if you are buying them.

Serves 6

6 filleted whiting

salt, pepper

beaten egg and breadcrumbs or seasoned flour

clarified butter*

375–500 g (¾–1 lb) chopped chanterelles (girolles) or ceps (boletus) or other woodland mushrooms

sunflower oil

6 tablespoons butter, unsalted

4 tablespoons chopped shallot

2 teaspoons each chopped parsley, chervil and chives

4 tarragon leaves, chopped

salt, pepper

lemon juice

Season the whiting with salt and pepper, in advance if possible. Then dry it, and coat it with egg and breadcrumbs, or seasoned flour. Fry in clarified butter until golden, then keep warm.

Meanwhile, deal with the sauce. Cook the mushrooms in a little sunflower oil until the juices flow and they are almost done. Pour off the juice (use on another occasion), and add the butter and shallot. Continue to cook for a minute or two to soften the shallot slightly (be careful not to colour it). Stir in the herbs and season, adding a little lemon juice if you like. Pour over the fish and serve.

MERLANS AU VIN ROUGE

In this recipe