Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [246]
CATALAN FISH STEW (Zarzuela)
A zarzuela is an operetta, a musical entertainment, very gay and brightly coloured, frivolous – a good name for this splendid Catalan fish stew with its different tones of red and white, touched with saffron yellow. As with Paella, you may find it difficult to make because of the lack of fine fresh shellfish. Of course cooked and even frozen shellfish can be used, but the dish loses something of its pell-mell sweet intensity of flavour. As far as the plainer fish are concerned, squid and monkfish are essential as they have a hint of shellfish texture and flavour, after them come hake, sole or John Dory. In Spain, grouper (mero) is important to Zarzuela, but this is not a common fish. Substitutions can be made of course, so long as you have a variety of textures and tastes. Use the ingredient list as a guide only. Even if the result is not authentically Spanish, it may be just as delicious in its own way.
Serves 10–14
2 kg (4 lb) mixed fish – monkfish, hake, sole, John Dory, halibut, weever
500 g (1 lb) prawns in their shells or shrimp, mixed kinds and sizes, uncooked if possible
1 kg (2 lb) lobster, cut into 10 pieces
125 g (4 oz) onion, chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled, sliced thin
olive oil
750 g (1½ lb) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped
leaves of 1 handful of parsley
large pinch of saffron dissolved in 125 ml (4 fl oz) hot water
150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine
salt, pepper
Prepare, sort and slice the fish. Put all trimmings, tentacles, heads, bones and shells of cooked shellfish (apart from a few left whole to garnish) into a large pan. Cover with water, and boil for 30 minutes to make some stock. Aim to end up with 250 ml (8–9 fl oz).
From the next five ingredients, make a sofrito. This means something lightly fried and is the basis of many Spanish dishes and sauces. Sweat the onion and garlic slowly in the olive oil. As it turns golden, add the tomato and parsley. Cook to a thick, unwatery paste. When it is mellow add saffron and its water, wine and stock, with seasoning. When boiling hard, add the firmest fish and uncooked large shellfish. Simmer 5 minutes, then add softer fish and smaller shellfish and lobster pieces. Bring back to simmering point and simmer for 5 more minutes. Add cooked shellfish and give it 2 more minutes. Pour into a hot tureen and serve.
CORNISH BOUILLABAISSE
This magnificent stew of fish comes from Gidleigh Park Hotel on the edge of Dartmoor. It is made with the best ingredients that the western coast can supply and the quantities vary according to what is available.
Serves 8–10
¾–1 kg (1½–2 lb) lobster, uncooked
1–1½ kg (2–3 lb) mussels
1 large gurnard
750 g (1½ lb) monkfish or turbot
500 g (1 lb) red mullet
1 good kg (at least 2 lb) fish bones, heads, trimmings
1 large onion, chopped
2 medium carrots, diced small
white part of 2 leeks, diced small
2 medium stalks celery, diced small
olive oil
175 ml (6 fl oz) dry white wine
large pinch of saffron
lemon juice
2 tablespoons Pernod
1 head fennel, outer layer removed, then diced
250 g (8 oz) tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
salt, pepper, cayenne
Ask the fishmonger to cut the lobster across into slices, and crack the claws if you feel unable to tackle this yourself. Loosely tie the bits into a piece of butter muslin. Scrub and scrape the mussels, discarding any that are cracked or that obstinately stay open when tapped: tie them into another piece of butter muslin, leaving plenty of room for them to open. Scale, clean and fillet the remaining fish, as necessary, putting skin, bones, heads, etc. into a large pan with the fish trimmings and 2 litres (3½ pt) of water. Make a stock while you cut the fillets into convenient pieces for eating with a spoon, and prepare the vegetables.
Sweat the onion and diced vegetables in