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By Root 952 0

the egg yolk mixture, stirring all the time. Return to the pan and keep over a low heat, without boiling, until the sauce is thickened. Turn into a serving dish and serve with the croûtons tucked around the edge.

CHINESE CARP WITH CHICKEN FAT SAUCE

The Chinese consider that the flavour of chicken fat enhances the soft delicacy of carp. The fish will be fried in the fat with spring onion and ginger: soy sauce, sherry and some water are then added so that the carp can finish cooking more comfortably. Kenneth Lo gives a slightly more elaborate version of the sauce, which is well worth trying.

Serves 4–6 with other dishes

1¼ kg (2½-3 lb) carp

salt

1½ tablespoons plain flour

5 tablespoons chicken fat

2 slices fresh ginger, peeled, cut into shreds

2 cloves garlic, chopped

4 spring onions cut into 2½-cm (1-inch) lengths

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1 teaspoon chilli sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons sherry

1 packet tofu, 300 g (10 oz)

175 ml (6fl oz) chicken stock

Clean the carp completely and rub with salt outside and in the cavity. Leave for an hour, then dry and rub the flour into the fish.

In an oval flameproof casserole, heat the chicken fat. In it stir-fry the ginger, garlic and half the spring onion for 1 minute. Then add the sauces, sugar and sherry. Lay the carp on top, cook for 2 minutes, then turn it over and give it 2 minutes more. Meanwhile, cut the tofu into 12 pieces and put them against the inside of the pot. Add the stock and remaining spring onions. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Serve straightaway in the cooking pot.

HALASZLÉ KALOCSAI

Kalocsa fish soup is made with carp from the Danube, in a great iron pot, set on the banks of the river for preference. The right peppers to use are the hot cherry peppers that are much grown in Hungary, but fresh hot red chillis can be substituted. Other river fish can be used.

Serves 4–6

1 kg (2 lb) carp, cleaned

15 hot cherry peppers or 2 long fresh red hot chillis, 1 broken to expose the seeds

125 g (4 oz) chopped onion

3 teaspoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons paprika

salt

Chop the head and tail from the carp and put them into a large pot with the peppers or chillis, the onion, tomato paste, paprika and 1 litre (generous 1¾ pt) water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hour. Remove the head and tail. Then cut the fish into steaks, put them into the soup and simmer for up to 30 minutes. Do not be tempted to stir the soup or the fish will break up; just shake the pot from time to time. Add salt to taste, give it another 2 minutes and serve with bread.

NOTE If you persuade the fishmonger to skin the carp for you, put that in with the head and tail to flavour the broth.

KARP NA SZARO (Karpfen in Polnische sauce)

In Poland and East Germany it is usual to have carp in grey sauce (szary sos) on Christmas Eve. The fish is cooked with its scales on and everyone treasures a scale or two in their purse to bring them good luck in the coming year. Sometimes the sauce is made with a mixture of beer and red wine, or with red wine alone – carp in red wine is a New Year’s Eve dish in some parts of Germany.

Serves 6

1½ kg (3 lb) carp, prepared and cut into steaks, the head split

salt

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons plain flour

1 litre (1¾ pt) liquid, half brown beer (not bitter) and half beef stock or one-quarter beer, one-quarter red wine, half beef stock or half red wine, half beef stock

125 g (4 oz) chopped onion

3 tablespoons chopped green herbs

¼ teaspoon allspice or 2 cloves

3 prunes, stoned, chopped

60 g (2 oz) chopped Pfefferkuchen, pain d’épices or gingerbread

lemon juice, pepper, sugar

60 g (2 oz) blanched almonds

60 g (2 oz) raisins

Put the carp pieces in a dish with the head and sprinkle with salt (unless it has already been salted). Set aside for an hour.

Cook the butter to the fragrant brown stage, stir in the flour off the heat. Cook gently to a coffee-coloured