Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [103]
Ginza & Shiodome
Lunch deals are competitive in and around Ginza; roam the resutoran-gai in the Ginza Palmy Building (Map; 5-2-1 Ginza, Chuō-ku; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exit C3), or in department stores like Matsuzakaya, Matsuya and Takashimaya. Alternatively, head down to the basement food halls to pick up a bentō for later.
Nearby, convivial, atmospheric yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) restaurants light up their grills each evening under the railway tracks in Yūrakuchō’s Yakitori Alley (Map).
Sushi Zanmai (Map; 3541-1117; 4-11-9 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; dinner from ¥1500; 24hr; ; Hibiya line to Tsukiji, exit 1) After the sunrise fish auctions of the Tsukiji Fish Market, it serves market-fresh sushi to weary fishermen; then tourists and townsfolk, office workers and retirees. In the evening, it remains open to bar and restaurant trade, and the ladies of the floating world. Zanmai has an English picture menu and English lettering on the sign; there’s a proliferation of branches around the market.
Nair’s (Map; 3541-8246; www.ginza-nair.co.jp, in Japanese; 4-10-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner ¥1500/3000; 11.30am-9.30pm, to 8.30pm Sat & Sun, closed Tue; ; Hibiya, Toei Asakusa lines to Higashi-Ginza, exit A2) Nair’s was the first Indian restaurant to open in Tokyo, back in 1949, arriving here by way of Kerala and Manchuria. This still-popular restaurant, just up Shōwa-dōri from Kabuki-za, has an English menu and sign and is a boon for vegetarians in Ginza.
Shin-Hi-no-Moto (Map; 3214-8021; 2-4-4 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; meals ¥2500; 5pm-midnight; Yūrakuchō line to Yūrakuchō, exit A5 or Chiyoda, Hibiya, Toei Mita lines to Hibiya, exit A2) Under the tracks in Yūrakuchō, this lively izakaya is the perfect blend of authentic and accessible. It’s also known as Andy’s, after the expat son-in-law of the family, who now runs this friendly joint. There’s English-speaking staff and an English menu, but no English sign; look for the Guinness signs and red lantern.
Robata (Map;3591-1905; 1-3-8 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; meals from ¥3500; 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat; Chiyoda, Hibiya, Toei Mita lines to Hibiya, exit A4) Along the alley parallelling the JR tracks, this is one of Tokyo’s most celebrated izakaya. A little Japanese ability is helpful here, but the point-and-eat method works fine, as the country-style dishes are piled invitingly on the counter. Look for the rustic black shop, huge sign on the 2nd floor and vegetables displayed outside.
Kyūbei (Map; 3571-6523; www.kyubey.jp; 8-7-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥4000/10,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; ; Ginza line to Shimbashi, exit 1) Established in 1936, this superb sushi restaurant continues to earn its reputation as one of Tokyo’s best. If you treat yourself to one high-end, raw-fish experience, reserve a place at Kyūbei. An English menu is available online, not in-house, but English-speaking staff can help you order. Its minimalist facade has a discreet flagstone path on the left, one street west of Chūō-dōri.
Ten-Ichi (Map; 3571-1949; www.tenichi.co.jp, in Japanese; 6-6-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥5000/8500; 11.30am-9.30pm; ; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, to Ginza, exits A1, B3 & B6) Frying up famously transcendent tempura since 1930, Ten-Ichi is the place to splash out on unbelievably light tempura in elegant surroundings. Reservations are recommended. There’s a square lantern out front with the shop’s bold kanji on it.
Birdland (Map; 5250-1081; B1 fl, Tsukamoto Sogyo Bldg, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; meals from ¥6000; 5-9pm Tue-Sat; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exit C6) The yakitori chefs at Birdland know there’s more than one way to skewer a chicken. The resulting preparation