Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [104]
L’Osier (Map; 3571-6050; www.shiseido.co.jp/e/losier/top.htm; 7-5-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥6800/19,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exit B6) L’Osier has long been considered one of Tokyo’s most sublime French restaurants, this idea lately reinforced by the three stars Michelin granted in 2008. Modern takes on classic French cuisine are served in a relaxed and elegant setting – you’ll want to dress up for this delicious expedition.
Ueno
Around Ueno, you’ll find a good variety of cheap Japanese places in and around Ameyoko Arcade, where you can also pick up takeaway and fruit from vendors.
Ueno Yabu Soba (Map; 3831-4728; 6-9-16 Ueno, Taitō-ku; meals from ¥750; 11.30am-9pm Thu-Tue; ; JR Yamanote line to Ueno, Hirokōji exit) Near the arcade, this famous soba (buckwheat noodles) shop has a peaceful, traditional atmosphere despite its busyness. There’s an English picture menu, but if you can’t decide, try the filling nabeyaki soba (noodles topped with vegetables, egg and tempura shrimp). Look for the black granite sign on the corner shop that says ‘Since 1892’.
Futaba (Map; 3831-6483; 2-8-11 Ueno, Taitō-ku; meals ¥1500-3000; lunch & dinner Tue-Fri, 11.30am-6pm Sat & Sun, closed Mon & Thu; JR Yamanote line to Ueno, Hirokōji exit) Though the nondescript beige exterior doesn’t look like much, the proof of Futaba’s longevity is in its pudding – or rather, its pork cutlets. We found the service to be a bit gruff, but you’re keeping it real in Ueno if you head to this corner shop and order a tonkatsu teishoku (deep-fried pork cutlet set meal; ¥1500). There’s no English menu or sign.
Izu-ei (Map; 3831-0954; 2-12-22 Ueno, Taitō-ku; meals from ¥1785; 11am-10pm; ; JR Yamanote line to Ueno, Hirokōji exit) Unagi is believed to improve one’s stamina on oppressively humid days, but we enjoy it as much in cooler weather. Izu-ei, which has an English picture menu, offers the added bonus of lovely views of Shinobazu-ike. Stray beyond the usual bentō, and try an unagi kaiseki (multicourse meal, from ¥7350) in a traditional tatami room. You’ll find menus at street level and a traditional black exterior, set back slightly above the street.
Sasa-no-Yuki (Map; 3873-1145; www.sasanoyuki.com, in Japanese; 2-15-10 Negishi, Taitō-ku; meals from ¥1800; 11am-9pm Tue-Sun; ; JR Yamanote line to Uguisudani, north exit) Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in Edo times, serving beautifully presented tōfu-ryōri (multicourse, tofu-based meals). Friendly staff and the English menu will help you order. To find it, turn right out the station exit, cross the big intersection at Kototoi-dōri and look for the black-walled restaurant on your left about 200m up, past the pedestrian overpass.
Echikatsu (Map; 3811-5293; 2-31-23 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; meals from ¥7000; 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat in Aug; Chiyoda line to Yushima, exit 5) One of Shitamachi’s most attractive qualities is its time-warp from modern Tokyo. Echikatsu is no exception, with its sukiyaki and shabu-shabu bubbling within the bamboo walls of a beautifully maintained traditional house with a Japanese garden. There’s an English menu here; reservations are recommended.
Asakusa
Asakusa’s variety of Japanese food makes it difficult to choose where to eat. Poke your head into some of the restaurants in the alleys between Sensō-ji and Kaminarimon-dōri if you can’t decide.
Sometarō (Map; 3844-9502; www.sometaro.com, in Japanese; 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; meals ¥1000; noon-10pm; ; Ginza line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) Sometaro is a fun, funky place to try DIY okonomiyaki (meat, seafood and vegetables in a cabbage-and-vegetable batter). You cook it yourself on a griddle built into your table, and the English menu includes a helpful how-to. Sometarō has a rustic, overgrown facade.
Kappabashi Coffee (Map; 5828-0308; 3-25-11 Nishi-Asakusa,