Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [105]
Daikokuya (Map; 3844-1111; 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; dishes ¥1500-3000; 11.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat; ; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exit 1) Near Nakamise-dōri, this is the place to get down-home tempura, an Asakusa speciality. The line out the door usually snakes around the corner at lunchtime, but if it looks unbearably long, try your luck at the branch on the next block. Both have English menus but signs in Japanese; if there’s no queue, look for the bench in front of this small, traditional building.
Komagata Dojō (Map; 3842-4001; 1-7-12 Komagata, Taitō-ku; dishes ¥1500-3000; 11am-9pm; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 2 & A5) The sixth-generation chef running this marvellous restaurant continues the tradition of turning the simple dojō (a small, eel-like river fish) into rich deliciousness. It’s all floor seating at the shared low, wooden plank tables, and an English picture menu details your options. If you choose the nabe (¥1700), the dojō will come on a charcoal-heated dish; heap it with chopped scallions and cook through before eating. Look for the restaurant’s traditional facade between modern buildings.
Tsukiji Sushi-sen (Map; 5830-1020; 1st & 2nd fl, 2-16-9 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; meals ¥1800; 24hr; ; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 2 & A5) A seating charge of ¥315 will be added to your bill here, but it’s a small price to pay when you’re fiending for good sushi at 4am. As the name implies, this shop traces its lineage back to the Tsukiji Market. If you aren’t well-versed in sushi lingo, there’s a picture menu, but you can’t go wrong with the tokusen omakase nigiri (chef’s choice assortment; ¥3150). Look for the name in English beneath the kanji on the sign.
Vin Chou (Map; 3845-4430; www.vinchou.jp/r-asakusa/asakusa.html, in Japanese; 2-2-13 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; meals from ¥5000; 5-11pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 4-10pm Sun) In a city enamoured of all things French, this is, bien sÛr, a French-style yakitori joint, offering foie gras with your tori negi (chicken and leek). A pleasant novelty for this old-fashioned neighbourhood. It’s around the corner from Taitō Ryokan, with an English menu and small sign in French.
Ikebukuro
Though not a dining destination in itself, Ikebukuro has plenty of fine places to chow down.
Tonchin (Map; 3987-8556; http://tonchin.foodex.ne.jp, in Japanese; 1st fl, 2-26-2 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals from ¥600; 11am-4am; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, Seibu east exit) The line out the door could signal mere hype, but the rich tonkotsu rāmen (noodles in pork-bone broth) here will show you substance. To order, choose what type of rāmen and toppings you want from pictures on the ticket vending machine in front. While you wait, staff will take your ticket so that your rāmen is ready when you’re seated. Turn up at off-peak hours for a shorter wait.
Marhaba (Map; 3987-1031; 2-63-6 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals ¥1200-2400; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, 11.30am-9pm Sun; ; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, north exit) The small green sign indicating the entrance to this Pakistani place is as unassuming as the humble interior, but the smells issuing from the glassed-in kitchen are heavenly. There are few concessions to Japanese tastes, so the brain masala (¥1200) and samosas (¥400) are authentic and pleasantly spicy.
Malaychan (Map; 5391-7638; www.malaychan.jp/NewFiles/contents_E.html; 3-22-6 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals ¥2000; dinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit) With its sweet location on a corner across from