Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [106]
Akiyoshi (Map; 3982-0644; 3-30-4 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals ¥3000; 5-11pm; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, west exit) If in the mood for yakitori, Akiyoshi’s open grill at centre stage ignites a festive, sociable atmosphere. Chefs work quickly to move traffic along, but that doesn’t mean you can’t sit comfortably through several courses and some conversation with a fellow diner. There’s an English menu and an English sign.
Sasashū (Map; 3971-6796; 2-2-6 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals from ¥6000; dinner Mon-Sat; JR Yamanote line to Ikebukuro, north exit) Sasashū’s Japanese-style facade is easy to pick out between the modern concrete strip joints nearby; look for the small gourd-shaped wooden sign lettered in English. This dignified izakaya is renowned for its high-quality sake selection and traditional hearths. Some Japanese-language ability (or a Japanese friend) would be helpful here, but consider trying the kamonabe (duck stew; ¥3150) or salmon yaki (grilled salmon; ¥840), if not an omakase meal (chef’s recommendation; name your budget).
At lunchtime, don’t forget the restaurant floors in Seibu and Tōbu. The eastern side of the Ikebukuro station is crammed with rāmen shops and kaiten-sushi (conveyor-belt sushi restaurant), and is also the place you’ll find Namco Namjatown (5950-0765; 2nd fl, World Import Mart Bldg, 3-1-3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; adult/child ¥300/200; 10am-10pm), which houses three food ‘theme parks’, specialising variously in gyōza (Chinese dumplings), desserts and ice cream. Admission only gets you in; you’ll have to pay extra for the treats you want to sample.
Shinjuku
For a taste of Occupation-era Tokyo, meander through Omoide-yokochō (Map; Memory Lane), aka ‘Piss Alley’ (as it’s less politely known), where tiny restaurants are packed shoulder to shoulder beside the JR tracks just northwest of Shinjuku station. Here, local workers stop off for yakitori, oden (fishcakes, tofu, vegetables and eggs simmered in a kelp-flavoured broth), noodles and beer before braving the trains back home. Most places serve similar things and few have names, so pick the place that appeals to you. What they serve will be piled on the counters; just point to order, and expect to pay about ¥2000 per person. Omoide-yokochō is slated to be razed imminently to make way for new development, so catch it while it’s still standing.
Here are a few options in the Shinjuku area:
Nakajima (Map; 3356-7962; http://shinjyuku-nakajima.com, in Japanese; 3-32-5 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥800/12,500; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Marunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit A1) The speciality of this warmly-lit, immaculate basement restaurant is the iwashi (sardine) – simmered in sweet broth with egg, served as sashimi, or delicately fried and laid on a bed of rice. Though there’s no English menu, the hostess will explain the options to you in flawless English. Dinners are kaiseki, but lunches are fabulously inexpensive. Down the alley next to the Beams building, look for a black building with an outside stairwell leading down to this one-Michelin-star shop.
Kōmen (Map; 5919-1660; www.kohmen.com, in Japanese; 1st & 2nd fl, 3-32-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; meals ¥850; 11am-5am; Marunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit A1) Though rāmen lovers have strong opinions on broth, noodles and their favourite shops, Kōmen is a popular chain serving excellent tonkotsu rāmen. This two-storey branch has an English menu and a classier, sleeker look than most rāmen joints. Look for its huge circular sign above the door near the corner of Meiji-dōri and Kōshū Kaidō.
Tsunahachi (Map; 3352-1012; www.tunahachi.co.jp, in Japanese; 3-31-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; meals from ¥1260; 11am-10pm; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) Tsunahachi keeps them coming with its reasonably priced, tasty tempura. Sit at the counter for