Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [107]
Breizh Café (Map; 5361-1335; 13th fl, Takashimaya Times Sq, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; meals from ¥1480; lunch & dinner; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, new south exit) The Breton-style buckwheat crêpes and savoury galettes are reason enough to dine at this bright crêperie (clearly signed in French), but on sunny days, taking a garden-side table on the outdoor terrace is an added treat. While the French standards are well represented on the English menu, Japanese enhancements keep things interesting – like the dessert crêpe drizzled with kuro-mitsu (sweet black sugar), served with green-tea ice cream (¥850).
Canard (Map; 3200-0706; www.jlcjapon.com; B1 fl, 5-17-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; lunch/dinner courses from ¥1700/3000; lunch & dinner; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) Tucked into a tiny alley near Hanazono-jinja, an equally petite Canard serves homemade, seasonally-changing French food in intimate surroundings. With wine the bill adds up, but the meal is worth every yen. Reservations are highly recommended. There’s a menu in English and a French sign.
Chaya Macrobiotics (Map; 3357 0014; 7th fl, Isetan Bldg, 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; meals from ¥2000; 11am-10pm; ; Marunouchi line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit A1) Marrying the concepts of Japanese macrobiotics and French cuisine, Chaya offers healthy whole foods alongside lists of organic tea, wine and apple cider. Though the seasonal menu (available in English) is anchored by mostly vegan offerings, such as red rice risotto, seitan-and-millet burgers and seaweed side salads, fish also figures prominently. The signage is all English.
Ibuki (Map; 3352-4787; 3-23-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; sukiyaki course ¥3600, shabu-shabu ¥3800; 4-11.30pm; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) A terrific sukiyaki and shabu-shabu restaurant in Shinjuku, Ibuki gets a lot of foreign trade and has an English menu and sign. This friendly place offers a traditional atmosphere and sociable dining experience, and accepts credit cards.
Tōfuro (Map; 3320-1370; 1-32-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥4000; lunch & dinner; JR Yamanote line to Yoyogi, south exit) Even if you’re not a fan of tofu, there’s lots to eat in this upscale, Edo-style izakaya. Small, private rooms are good for groups, who can order set meals consisting of several courses. The traditional cuisine includes homemade tofu and a full menu of grilled meats, fish, soups and oden, detailed on an English menu. Look for the traditional shopfront with a well-lit red doorway.
Kozue (Map; 5323-3460; 40th fl, Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; set lunch/dinner from ¥4000/12,000; lunch & dinner; ; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, south exit) With so many places to splurge on a phenomenal supper in this city, the choice can be paralysing. But if you’re planning on upmarket Japanese, Kozue delivers in sublime fashion. High up on the 40th floor of the Park Hyatt, the atmosphere is romantically dim for your full-course meal (you can also order à la carte). Either way, nonspeakers of Japanese will appreciate the English menu and knowledgeable bilingual staff, while all tongues will savour the exquisite cuisine prepared here.
If you can’t find anything to your liking on the streets, try the resutoran-gai of the big department stores. The Isetan building Click here has a resutoran-gai on its 8th floor, while Takashimaya Times Square (5361-3301; 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; 10am-9pm) has a resutoran-gai on its 12th to 14th floors. Both also have huge, sparkly depachika.
Harajuku & Aoyama
Harajuku and Aoyama have more bistros, cafes and trattorias than most small European towns. The artery feeding it all is the promenade of Tokyo’s young and beautiful: Omote-sandō. A few Japanese eateries are worth seeking out among the French and faddish restaurants.
Fujimamas