Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [108]
Hiroba (Map; 3406-6409; B1 fl, Crayon House, 3-8-15 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; lunch buffet ¥1260; 11am-10pm; ; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon to Omote-sandō, exits B2 & B4) In the brightly signed Crayon House Building, this cheery little spot does an excellent organic lunch buffet that includes both vegetarian and nonvegetarian options. Though descriptions of dishes are only in Japanese, the signs include cute, helpful drawings of fish or pigs to tell you what kinds of animal ingredients are used.
Le Bretagne (Map; 3478-7855; www.le-bretagne.com; 3-5-4 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥1800; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon lines to Omote-sandō, exit A2) Authentic and satisfying buckwheat crêpes straight out of Brittany (much like the chefs themselves) are the stars at Le Bretagne. A savoury galette with mixed greens and a ceramic cup of organic cider is a perfect retreat from an afternoon shopping along Omote-sandō. There’s an English menu and the name in French on the awning.
Las Chicas (Map; 3407-6865; www.vision.co.jp/aoyama/index.html; 5-47-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; meals from ¥1300; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11.30pm Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; ; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon lines to Omote-sandō, exit B2) One of the rare alfresco dining terraces in the city, this almost too-cool-for-school spot offers casual classics like the Caligula salad (Caesar with a twist) enjoyed by the largely foreign fans. The wine list is solid, but you can repair to the basement lounge for cocktails before dinner and browse adjacent designer boutiques afterwards. Signed in English, with an English menu available.
Maisen (Map; 3470-0071; 4-8-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; lunch sets ¥1500; 11am-10pm; ; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon lines to Omote-sandō, exit A2) Maisen turns out righteous, crisp tonkatsu that draws consistent queues. Thankfully, the place is housed in a converted bathhouse, so there’s plenty of room for the many souls craving Kagoshima kurobuta (black pork; ¥1260). If you’re on the run, pick up a bentō at the takeaway window.
Mominoki House (Map; 3405-9144; www2.odn.ne.jp/mominoki_house; 1st fl, 2-18-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; mains around ¥1500; 11am-11pm; JR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit) You might be all tonkatsu-ed out, even if you’re not of the vegetarian persuasion. Those seeking some relief from deep-fried delicacies can stop into Mominoki House, which turns out excellent macrobiotic food. In this rambling little warren of a space, corners are filled with jazz and happy plants, and the proprietor will stop and chat about Stevie Wonder, pottery and holistic living. There’s an English menu and sign outside.
Fonda de la Madrugada (Map; 5410-6288; www.fonda-m.com, in Japanese; B1 fl, Villa Blanca, 2-33-12 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥3800/6000; 5.30pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; ; JR Yamanote line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit) Head north of the Turkish embassy to this local favourite, serving some of Tokyo’s best-loved Mexican food. Everything from the tiles to the strolling mariachi musicians has been imported from Mexico. It ain’t cheap (¥900 guacamole?! ay-ay-ay), but after a few tequila shots you’ll be having too much fun to notice. There’s an English menu and sign.
Ume-no-hana (Map; 3475-8077; 6th fl, Aoyama Bell Commons, 2-14-6 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; dinner ¥7000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner Sun; Ginza & Hanzōmon lines to Gaienmae, exit 2) This elegant, traditional restaurant is rightfully well known for its kaiseki meals that showcase tofu and yuba (tofu