Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [109]
Shibuya
Take the briefest look around Shibuya and it may occur to you that there must be a lot of restaurants lurking in all those department stores – you are correct. Winners: to collect your prize, proceed to the 7th floor of Parco Part 1 or the 8th floor of the Shibuya 109 building.
Kantipur (Map; 3770-5358; www.kantipur.jp; B1 fl, 16-6 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; mains around ¥850; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, 11.30am-11pm Sat; ; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, south exit) After crossing the pedestrian overpass above Tamagawa-dōri and spotting its colourful sandwich boards on the street, make your way downstairs into the warmly lit dining room. Kantipur serves generous portions of Nepalese food with a bountiful selection of vegetarian choices, detailed on an English menu.
Hina Sushi (Map; 3462-1003; B2 fl, 21-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1050/2420; 11am-11pm; ; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) In the basement of the Seibu A Building, Hina Sushi has several tabehōdai (all-you-can-eat) and nomihōdai (all-you-can-drink) specials on Fridays and Saturdays. It’s great value for sushi of this quality, but there’s a time limit, so come ravenous. There’s an English sign and menu.
Bio Café (Map; 5428-3322; 16-14 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; lunch ¥1400; 11am-11pm; ; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Nestled amid the accessories shops and all-you-can-eat dessert cafes down this winding alley lies the peaceful Bio Café, serving organic, mostly vegetarian meals in a softly lit dining room. Some dishes contain animal products, so strict vegetarians should ask before ordering. Consider sampling the ‘alcohol for beautiful skin’ cocktail. The sign is in English, and there’s an English menu.
Toriyoshi Dining (Map; 5784-3373; B1 fl, 2-10-10 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; dinner from ¥3000; 5pm-4am; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) This step up from more casual yakitori joints is below ground in Shibuya. With a tasteful urban aesthetic, the atmosphere is appealing for an intimate dinner of free-range chicken grilled over binchō (high-grade oak) charcoal. Order à la carte or go with full-course meals. There’s an English sign and English menu available.
Den Rokuen-tei (Map; 6415-5489; 8th fl, Parco Part 1, 15-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; meals from ¥3000; 11am-midnight; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Modern twists on seasonally changing Japanese izakaya dishes are matched with an array of wine, beer and sake cocktails. Private tatami rooms are available, but at this relaxed, stylish perch on the top of Parco 1, the open-air terrace is the prime real estate. There’s an English sign and menu available.
Sakana-tei (Map; 3780-1313; 4th fl, Koike Bldg, 2-23-15 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; meals from ¥3500; 5.30-11pm Mon-Sat; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) This unpretentious, but slightly posh, izakaya is a sake specialist much sought after by connoisseurs, and it’s great value to boot. There’s no English menu; just point at the dishes on the counter to order. Call ahead for reservations, but turn off your mobile phone once you’re in. From the Shibuya JR station, take Bunkamura-dōri (to the right of the Shibuya 109 building), and take a left where the road splits. Take your first left, and the Koike Building will be the first on your right.
Gomaya (Map; 3770-8158; B1 fl, Matsubara Bldg, 2-25-13 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥3500; 5pm-midnight; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Duck into the alley next to McDonald’s along Bunkamura-dōri and find the stairwell for Gomaya on your right. The sign is in English, as is a limited menu. Artistically arranged plates will appear in front of you as you order, but a must-try is the house-made gomadōfu (black sesame tofu). There’s also a six-course, all-you-can-drink special