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Sora-no-Niwa (Map; 5728-5191; 4-17 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥4000; 5pm-midnight; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, New South West exit) Reservations are recommended at this popular tofu restaurant, where you can enjoy not only freshly-made tofu, but try your hand at making yuba at your table. The modern Japanese decor complements the traditional tofu dishes with contemporary twists – tofu tiramisu, for one. There’s an English menu and English sign.

Ebisu & Daikanyama

In Ebisu, have a look around the 6th floor of the Atré building above Ebisu station for all the standard Japanese standbys, or you could venture forth into the neighbourhood for more variety and worthwhile eating establishments serving international food.

Rivalling Harajuku and Aoyama as the centre of Tokyo cafe society, Daikanyama is a chic destination to sip a cappuccino and engage in serious people-watching before perusing the local designer wares. You’ll also find plenty of foreign restaurants – some good, some merely fashionable. The Tōkyū Tōyoko line (catch it from Shibuya) stops directly in Daikanyama, but it’s also an easy 10-minute walk from Ebisu. From the west exit of Ebisu station, head west along Komazawa-dōri and turn right at the big intersection with Kyu-Yamate-dōri. When you hit the pedestrian overpass, make another right at Hachiman-dōri and you’ll soon arrive in the heart of Daikanyama, with the shopping complex Daikanyama Address on your right.

Here are some other neighbourhood options:

Fujiyama Seimen (Map; 3473-0088; 1-13-6 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥900; lunch & dinner; Hibiya line to Naka-Meguro, northwest exit) At most rāmen shops, you can order tsukemen (noodles with the broth on the side), but some outshine others in this presentation, Fujiyama being one of them. The open kitchen and friendly staff create a vibrant atmosphere in this semi-industrial shop alongside the tracks. The noodles are thick and substantial, readily soaking up the flavour of the soup, which has a piquant hint of yuzu (Japanese citrus) to it. There’s an English sign and menu.

Ippūdō Rāmen (Map; 5420-2225; 1-3-13 Hiro-o, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥900; 11am-4am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; JR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit) This rāmen shop on Meiji-dōri is nationally famous for its Kyūshū-style rāmen into which you add fresh garlic and spicy sprouts. There’s a big white sign in kanji over the door and a long queue at peak periods – as at any busy rāmen shop, you shouldn’t linger longer than 20 minutes to eat. There’s an English menu.

Ura (Map; 5489 1117; 1-17-1 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥1500; noon-4am Tue-Sun, to 11pm Mon; JR Yamanote line to Ebisu, west exit) With so many little cafes and bistros around Daikanyama, it can be hard to decide whether you want to nibble a scone or indulge in an afternoon cocktail. But this cool, casual spot is inviting day or night, with mostly French-style dishes, and is balanced out by well-chosen wines, good espresso and desserts. The seasonally changing menu is in basic English, as is its subtle sign on the wall outside.

Good Honest Grub (Map; 3797-9877; www.goodhonestgrub.com; 2-20-8 Higashi, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥1500; 11.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pm Sat & Sun; ; Chiyoda line to Meiji-jingūmae, exit 4) Long the place to go for weekend brunches, this Canadian-run, vegetarian-friendly eatery is a sweet place for a healthy bite. Serving smoothies, hearty wraps and sandwiches, it’s a welcoming spot to turn up for a nosh. There’s an English sign and menu.

Tonki (Map; 3491-9928; 1-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; meals ¥1650; 4-11pm Wed-Mon, closed 3rd Mon each month; JR Yamanote line to Meguro, west exit) You know a place is doing something right when it only offers two choices. Here, it’s tonkatsu – choose the lean hire-katsu or fattier rōsu-katsu. The service here is down to an efficient art form, and your perfect tonkatsu will arrive (after a wait) with rice, shredded cabbage and miso soup. From the station walk westward down the hill on Meguro-dōri, take a left at the first alley