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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [112]

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Roppongi, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner ¥5000/15,000; lunch & dinner; Hibiya, Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exits 1c & 3) Another two-star Michelin standout, L’Atelier is an upscale French diner whose main counter is fashioned after a sushi bar. Sip on wine or a cocktail from the well-rounded list as you watch the chefs, clad in black, working their magic in the open kitchen. The divine fusion cuisine combines Japanese, French and Spanish elements with refined style, and is best sampled in one of the tasting menus. The menu is in French and Japanese, but the servers speak English.

Seryna (Map3402-1051; www.seryna.co.jp; 3-12-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner ¥6000/15,000; noon-11.30pm Mon-Fri, to 10.30pm Sat & Sun; Hibiya, Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exits 3 & 5) Seryna is the go-to stalwart for those wishing to try Kōbe (wa-gyū) beef. With several eateries under its roof, you can try shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, or opt for a slab of steak and teppanyaki (table-top grilling). The restaurant surrounds a pretty rock garden. There’s an English sign and menu.

Inakaya (Map; 3408-5040; www.roppongiinakaya.jp; 5-3-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; meals from ¥10,000; dinner; Hibiya, Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exits 2 & 3) Once you’re bombarded with greetings at the door, the action doesn’t stop at this old-guard robatayaki (rustic bar-restaurant serving charcoal-grilled food that goes beautifully with booze; literally ‘hearthside cooking’). Point at what you’d like to eat (there’s no English menu, though prices are listed on the website) and it will be grilled for you. It’s boisterous and joyous – the attitude one must have when the bill arrives.

Fukuzushi (Map; 3402-4116; 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; meals around ¥10,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Hibiya, Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exits 3 & 5) This is one of the best, most accessible sushi bars in Roppongi, with an upscale atmosphere that’s decidedly more relaxed than more traditional places in Ginza. The fish here is fresh, the portions are large and there are cocktails to boot. It’s in the alley beyond the Hard Rock Café, and has an English picture menu and English sign.

Akasaka

Along with nearby Roppongi, Akasaka is one of Tokyo’s more cosmopolitan neighbourhoods. While most of the evening action shuts down on the early side, a stroll through the narrow streets just west of Akasaka-mitsuke subway station will turn up a number of good lunch bargains.

Jangara Rāmen (Map; 3595-2130; 2-12-8 Nagatachō, Minato-ku; meals from ¥580; 11am-2am, to 3.30am Fri, to 1am Sun; Chiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 2) Near the entrance to Hie-jinja, colourful Jangara is a popular place for a great, inexpensive bowl of rāmen. Live a little and order the zenbu-iri rāmen (all-in rāmen; ¥1000) – it comes topped with hard-boiled egg, slices of pork and fish cake (among other goodies). There’s no English menu.

Moti (Map; 3582-3620; 2nd fl, 3-8-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner ¥800/2000; 11.30am-11pm; ; Ginza, Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke, Belle Vie exit) Moti, probably Tokyo’s most popular chain of Indian restaurants, has two branches in Akasaka, each just a few minutes’ walk from Akasaka or Akasaka-mitsuke subway stations. Both are cosy and friendly, serving inexpensive and tasty Indian food. It has English signs and menus.

Kushinobō (Map; 3581-5056; 3rd fl, Akasaka Tōkyū Plaza, 2-14-3 Nagatachō, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1050/2100; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat & Sun; Ginza, Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke, Belle Vie exit) Sometimes it’s necessary to give in to those dark cravings for something deep fried, and because these lunches are fairly inexpensive, you can at least console yourself with your budgetary virtue. Come to Kushinobō at times like these for kushiage (skewers of deep-fried meat, seafood and vegetables). There’s an English menu and sign here.

Umaya (Map; 6229-1661; 4-2-32 Akasaka, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1100/3000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Ginza, Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke, Belle Vie exit) This lovely, traditionally styled restaurant serves a variety of Japanese

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