Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [113]
Sunaba (Map; 3583-7670; 6-3-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku; meals ¥1200; 11am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat; Chiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 6) Sunaba has some of the city’s finest buckwheat noodles. It invented tempura soba (¥1550), and serves it in an exquisite, smoky tsuyu (dipping sauce). It’s next to the Kokusai Shin-Akasaka building, and it has a sister shop in Nihombashi. There’s a limited picture menu in English.
Asterix (Map; 5561-0980; B1 fl, 6-3-16 Akasaka, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥1500/3000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Chiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 7) A French lunch at Asterix is a smashing deal. But dinner has its own merits – not as rushed, so you can linger over your wine. Portions are large but the dining room is tiny, so reservations are advised. The menu is in French (as is the sign); the server can translate into English if necessary.
Daidaiya (Map; 3588-5087; 9th fl, Belle Vie, 3-1-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner ¥1500/6000; 11.30am-2.30pm & 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 5-11pm Sat & Sun; Ginza, Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke, Belle Vie exit) The dark, modern decor of this fusion izakaya could hint at pretentious drama, but you’ll soon see that the mood is fun and festive. Mixing up salmon roe and pine nuts, balsamic vinegar and sea urchin, the menu uses seasonal ingredients to artistic and delicious effect – and the backdrop adds to the flavour. There’s an English menu.
Sushi-sei (Map; 3582-9503; 3-11-14 Akasaka, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner ¥1700/4500; 11.30am-2pm & 5-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.45am-2pm & 4.30-10pm Sat; Ginza, Marunouchi lines to Akasaka-mitsuke, Belle Vie exit) This branch of the famous Tsukiji sushi chain won’t disappoint; with its reputation, you can be sure you’re eating some of the freshest fish around. Choose from a picture menu or try a reasonably-priced sushi set (the nigiri omakase is ¥2625). The low-profile shop is set back slightly from the street and there’s no English sign.
Kikunoi (Map; 3568-6055; 6-13-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku; dinners from ¥20,000; dinner Mon-Sat; Chiyoda line to Akasaka, exit 6) This Kyoto-based kaiseki restaurant has built its reputation over three generations, and its fame has expanded to international recognition after being awarded with two Michelin stars in 2008. Exquisitely prepared seasonal dishes are as beautiful as they are delicious. The restaurant’s Chef Murata has also written a book on kaiseki, and the staff helpfully use the book to explain the dishes you are served. There’s no English menu, and reservations are essential.
Odaiba
Odaiba makes a beautiful backdrop for enjoying a romantic meal, as most of the restaurants have good views of Tokyo Bay.
Khazana (Map; 3359-6551; 5th fl, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; lunch/dinner ¥1000/2000; 11am-11pm; ; Yurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen, main exit) Khazana’s Odaiba outpost is a welcoming perch for taking in the bay views and tucking into the eight-dish Rainbow special (¥3000). The staff are warm and the environment pleasantly laid-back. It has an English restaurant and sign.
Kua ‘Aina (Map; 3599-2800; 4th fl, Aqua City, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; meals ¥1400; ; 11am-11pm; Yurikamome line to Daiba, main exit) A good burger is hard to find (in Tokyo). What a welcome sight, then, to find a branch of this Hawaiian chain, which serves fat (one-third to half-pound) burgers with avocado or bacon. On the side you can also nosh on American sides like fries and onion rings, and wash it all down with an imported Kona beer. There are other branches around Tokyo, all with English signage and menus.
Tsukiji Tama Sushi (Map; 3599-6556; 5th fl, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; meals ¥2000-4000; 11am-11pm; Yurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen, main exit) Settle yourself near the windows