Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [114]
For fun – and a little dim sum (yum cha) – check out the array of Hong Kong–style eateries at Daiba Little Hong Kong (Map; www.odaiba-decks.com, in Japanese; 6th & 7th fl, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; breakfast, lunch & dinner; Yurikamome line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen, main exit). Rāmen lovers will want to check out the Rāmen Stadium (Map; 5th fl, Aqua City, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; 11am-11pm; Yurikamome line to Daiba, main exit).
Return to beginning of chapter
DRINKING
Bar and club life being what it is, the venue of the moment might be passé come tomorrow morning. The following is a rundown on bars and clubs that have shown some staying power and were going strong at the time of writing. For up-to-the-minute listings, check the websites noted Click here.
For a true Japanese drinking experience, round up a few people and check out an izakaya; chains like Tsubohachi (Map; 3464-5681; B1 fl, 33-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; meals ¥3500; 5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) have branches all over Tokyo and huge picture menus to choose what to eat with your nama-biiru (draught beer). During the summer, many of the large department stores like Keiō in Shinjuku or Matsuya in Ginza open up their rooftop beer gardens, a treat on hot summer evenings. Join the salarymen after work and hoist a few on these open-air terraces.
And of course, most high-rise hotels have bars with stupendous views over the city. Try the New York Bar at the Park Hyatt, the Bello Visto at the Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel, or Lobby Bar at the Ritz-Carlton (see the boxed text).
Ginza & Shiodome
Business folk meet for after-work drinks at local izakaya and cement collegial relationships at fancy lounges in these neighbourhoods. Though not a party zone, there are some nice places for a drink or two.
300 Bar (Map; 3571-8300; www.300bar-8chome.com; B1 fl, No 2 Column Bldg, 8-3-12 Ginza, Chūō-ku; 5pm-2am Mon-Sat, 5-11pm Sun; JR Yamanote line to Shimbashi, Ginza exit) One of the few places in Ginza that can truthfully say it offers a bargain, this bar charges ¥300 for every drink or snack (tax not included). There’s no cover at this friendly standing bar.
Aux Amis des Vins (Map; 3567-4120; www.auxamis.com/desvins, in Japanese; 2-5-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; 5.30pm-2am Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; Yūrakuchō line to Ginza itchōme, exits 5 & 8) Both the informal indoor and a small outdoor seating area at this wine bar feel welcoming in all seasons. A solid selection of mostly French wines comes by the glass (¥800) or by the bottle. You can also order small plates or full prix-fixe dinners.
Ueno & Asakusa
Yawn – definitely not the neighbourhoods for a wild night out. But if you’re in Asakusa, try the beer halls in the Asahi Breweries complex (look up and follow the Flamme D’Or – aka the ‘Golden Turd’ – to the east side of the Sumida-gawa).
Kamiya Bar (Map; 3841-5400; 1-1-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; 11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon; Ginza, Toei Asakusa lines to Asakusa, exits 3 & A5) Spend an evening at this Shitamachi bar, which opened in 1880 and is said to be the oldest Western-style bar in Japan. There’s a smoky beer hall on the ground floor, where you order and pay for beer and food as you enter.
Warrior Celt (Map; 3836-8588; www.warriorcelt.com; 3rd fl, Ito Bldg, 6-9-22 Ueno, Taitō-ku; 5pm-5am Tue-Sat, to midnight Sun & Mon; JR Yamanote line to Ueno, south central exit) If you do find yourself hanging around old Shitamachi at night, head to this pub in Ueno, where drinks are only ¥600 from 5pm to 7pm. It’s a fun, friendly place with a good selection of English and Irish brews, as well as free live music several nights a week.
Shinjuku
Gaudy Shinjuku is awash with nightspots of every shape and size, many of which fall into the sordid category and don’t cater to foreigners. That said, there’s still plenty to do here at