Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [115]
One of the city’s most interesting night zones, the Golden Gai, is here in Shinjuku. Even if you don’t feel like a drink, take an evening stroll through this maze of tightly packed little establishments, just to soak in the low-slung moodiness – the whole place seems suspended in a time warp. Many of these miniscule bars do not welcome gaijin and/or non-Japanese speakers and may charge you a hefty cover for entering, but the first three establishments listed here are friendly to strangers. An easy way to get there is to find Hanazono-jinja Click here and then walk around to the steps at the back of the shrine, which lead right into the Golden Gai.
Albatross (Map; 3342-5758; www.alba-s.com, 1-2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 5pm-2am; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit B5) Though it has three floors, this tiny, atmospheric bar takes up little space in Omoide-yokochō Click here. Don’t be daunted if it looks full; order a drink on the 1st floor and keep heading upward to see if there’s space on the 3rd-floor terrace.
Bar Plastic Model (Map; 5273-8441; www.plastic-model.net, in Japanese; 1-1-10 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥700; 8pm-5am Mon-Sat, to 2am Sun; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit B5) There’s a new generation of creative bar owners converting old Golden Gai bars into incarnations of their own visions. This is one such concoction, decorated with tchotchkes c 1980, and sometimes with a DJ spinning beats.
Bon’s (Map; 3209-6334; 1-1-10 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥900; 7pm-5am; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit B5) Drinks start at ¥700 at this friendly spot in the Golden Gai. Look for its corner location with ‘Old Fashioned American Style Pub’ painted across its exterior wall.
La Jetée (Map; 3208-9645; 1-1-8 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥700; 7pm-late Mon-Sat; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit B5) A favourite among cineastes (and run by one), this tidy little haven is the namesake for a film much admired by its French-speaking proprietor and a good introduction to these alleys.
Zoetrope (Map; 3363-0162; http://homepage2.nifty.com/zoetrope; 3rd fl, Gaia Bldg, 7-10-14 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 7pm-4am Mon-Sat; Toei Ōedo line to Shinjuku-nishiguchi, exit D5) Spend a sociable, relaxed evening at this cosy bar, which features more than 300 kinds of Japanese whisky and screens silent films on the wall. An English menu will help you taste your way around.
Shibuya & Harajuku
These adjoining areas are a good option when the Roppongi crush is too much to bear. Harajuku and Aoyama are more about cafe culture, and you can spend an evening drinking beer and wine in them rather than mashing yourself into a smoky basement bar.
Belgo (Map; 3409-4442; B1 fl, 3-18-7 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; 5.30pm-2am, to 4.30am Fri, 4pm-midnight Sun) Pouring over 100 kinds of beer, including Guinness and Chimay on draught, Belgo rounds out its liquid offerings with quality Euro-style pub fare like classic fish and chips.
Den Aquaroom (Map; 5778-2090; B1 fl, 5-13-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; admission ¥700; 6pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon lines to Omote-sandō, exit B1) Darting fish within the walls of back-lit, blue aquariums make a visual counterpoint to the bop of jazz basslines. Even prettier than the dark decor is the chic clientele floating around here.
Insomnia 2 (Map; 3476-2735; B1 fl, 26-5 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; 6pm-5am; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Insomnia is that rare Shibuya find: a bar for grown-ups. Good food (and the kitchen’s open late), low music and an inviting red interior make it the kind of place to come when you want to hear your conversation.
Las Chicas (Map; 3407-6865; www.vision.co.jp/aoyama/index.html; 5-47-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-11.30pm Fri & Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; ; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon lines to Omote-sandō, exit B2) A great place to plant yourself for the night (Click here).