Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [120]
Arty Farty (Map; 5362-9720; www.arty-farty.net; 2nd fl, 2-11-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 7pm-late Mon-Sat, 5pm-3am Sun; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8) Arty Farty is a long-standing place to meet people, with fabulous all-you-can-drink specials and a mixed crowd. It’s a good place to start your evening and find out about the area’s other hot spots.
Kinswomyn (Map; 3354-8720; 3rd fl, 2-15-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 8pm-4am Wed-Mon; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8) Another well-established bar, Kinswomyn is a welcoming, women-only spot for Japanese and foreign women alike. The bar mistress Tara is friendly, as are the ladies hanging out here.
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Loft (Map; 5272-0382; www.loft-prj.co.jp/LOFT/index.html; B2 fl, Tatehana Bldg, 1-12-9 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission from ¥2500; 5pm-late; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) Had they been Japanese, the Rolling Stones would have played here long before they cut their first single. This Shinjuku institution is smoky, loud and lots of fun on a good night. Head into Kabukichō and find Loft a block east of the Koma Theater complex.
These bigger clubs draw brighter stars, so you’ll need to book tickets, rather than turn up in the hope of getting in on the night of a show:
Club Quattro (Map; 3477-8750; www.clubquattro.com; 4th & 5th fl, Parco Quattro Bldg, 32-13 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; admission from ¥3500; from 6pm; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
Liquid Room (Map; 5464-0800; www.liquidroom.net; 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku; admission from ¥3000; 7pm-late; JR Yamanote line to Ebisu, east exit)
O-East (Map; 5458-4681; www.shibuya-o.com, in Japanese; 2-14-8 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission from ¥2500; from 6pm; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
O-West (Map; 5784-7088; www.shibuya-o.com, in Japanese; 2-3 Maruyamachō, Shibuya-ku; admission from ¥2500; from 5.30pm; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit)
JAZZ
People in this city take their jazz seriously. For listings of performances, check the latest issue of Tokyo Journal or Metropolis.
Blue Note Tokyo (Map; 5485-0088; www.bluenote.co.jp; Raika Bldg, 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; admission ¥6000-10,000; 5.30pm-1am Mon-Sat, 5pm-1.30am Sun; Chiyoda, Ginza, Hanzōmon lines to Omote-sandō, exit B3) Tokyo’s marquee jazz venue in Minami-Aoyama allows aficionados the opportunity to listen up close and personal to greats like Chick Corea and Maceo Parker. You can print out an English map from its website.
JZ Brat (Map; 5728-0168; www.jzbrat.com, in Japanese; 2nd fl, Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel, 26-1 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; from 6pm Mon-Sat; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, south exit) This sleek club is an intimate venue with a sophisticated vibe, hosting performances not limited solely to jazz. Touring performers of folk and electronica also pass through; check local listings to find out what’s on.
STB 139 (Sweet Basil; Map; 5474-1395; http://stb139.co.jp; 6-7-11 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission ¥3000-7000; 6-11pm Mon-Sat; Hibiya, Toei Ōedo lines to Roppongi, exit 3) This is a large, comfortable space that draws big-name domestic and international acts, with performances covering the gamut of jazz genres. Call for reservations between 11am and 8pm.
Shinjuku Pit Inn (Map; 3354-2024; www.pit-inn.com; B1 fl, Accord Shinjuku Bldg, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥1300-4000; from 2pm; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit C8) This club has been going strong for around 40 years now. It’s an intimate space hosting day and evening performances by mostly Japanese jazz musicians.
Theatre & Dance
BUNRAKU
Kokuritsu Gekijō (National Theatre; Map; 3230-3000; www.ntj.jac.go.jp/english/index.html; 4-1 Hayabusachō, Chiyoda-ku; admission ¥1500-12,000; reservations 10am-6pm; Namboku, Yūrakuchō lines to Nagatachō, exit 4) Performances are staged several times a year here, even though Osaka is the home of bunraku (classical